Sirokoi

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Massai Warriors greeting us with a dance in the Mara

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Reticulated Giraffe-see the different pattern

Cheetah at Lewa

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Bathroom Sirokoi

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Cheetah in Lewa

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Lewa Downs

Lewa Wildlife  conservancy  is an amazing idea of a small group of people who wanted to preserve and conserve Indigenous animals game in north Kenya. Started by Ian Craig, they have grown to 17 projects protecting wildlife in the Lewa Conservancy.  We stayed at Lewa  House one of the camps in Lewa Downs. Game sighting is plentiful. Right after landing, on the way to the camp, we saw a pair of white rhino. Specialties of  Lewa are reticulated giraffe, Grevey zebra, white rhino, black rhino, hippo, and  elephants, which we saw in abundance. We also saw Cheetah, we rode right into the middle of a large group of breeding elephants- yikes! We  visited a fabulous 5* camp recommended by Richard Boone of Ol Donyo Waus, called Sirokoi.  A really polished, glamourous amazing property. I have attached some pictures. I would happily go back there again. 
Lewa house was set on the plains under fever trees. Beautiful setting. During lunch we watched a spectacular display of the area birds, and a mongoose on the prowl – our first kill. Accommodations are more simple, but comfortable. Great for a more moderate budget. 

Flying to Lamu on Kenya’s coast by Safari Link

We are back on the charter today- another caravan, flying to the island of Lamu on the Indian ocean. Tonight we are staying at Manda Bay. We will inspect peponi, beach house, and red pepper while we are visiting Lamu. 

Lamu
I have always heard that Lamu is a heavenly beach destination. Everything  I have heard was confirmed in spades. We arrived in the afternoon and took a boat directly to Manda Bay. Gorgeous coconut palms greeting us on the beach. We dropped our luggage and went immediately to see a special surprise: thousands of Northern  Carmine  bee- eaters. Thousands and thousands clustered and flying in huge clouds. It was such a spectacular sight. I will never forget it. We then got on a Dhow and had our cocktail cruise. While watching the sundown. Fabulous way to start a beach vacation.  Dinner was under the stars, on the beach. The food everywhere we have been has been incredible. This evening we had fresh prawns in our appetizer and red snapper. Lamu is a terrific fishing destination on the Indan Ocean off the coast of Kenya. An easy scheduled charter from many camps. I find that alot of clients like the down time on a beach after Safari. The next morning we went to see several hotels. Garden House, Shella house, Palm House, and the fabulous Beach House. All of these properties are in the city center of Lamu. They have several stories, so lots of steps to go from living room to bedroom, etc. We visited Peponi the delightful family run hotel, Peponi, right on the edge of the city, on the harbor. Across the bay on Manda Island is a spectacular new property called Majlis. Owned by an Italian family, we were hosted by Stefano Moccia, one of the sons. The artwork in the compound was the best I’ve seen in Kenya. Including major American contemporary art.  I will happily return and feel very comfortable putting clients there. Rooms were bright, the furnishings and decorative accessories were terrific. 
We actually stayed at another former private villa, Red Pepper. Soaring open rattan ceilings, very theatrical. I loved it. Only one room had air-conditioning and we suggested that they put it in all the rooms. The night is very still and weather in Lamu is HOT. 

Afternoon sighting of a cloud of Northern Carmine long claws.

Sailing on a Dhow in Lamu

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Garden House Lamu Kenya

Flying into Lamu

Dylan Harriss- our amazing organizer

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Heading to Tanzania-Singita Grumeti’s!

Best camps are for last and we are on our way to Tanzania to Singita Sabora and Singita Sasakwa.  As good as it gets!!! Can’t wait to see them again! 
A note about the visa situation: get your visa before coming to Tanzania and be sure to have your Yellow fever shots documented on the yellow card. We flew on by charter, if we had flown in commercially, the visa application line and procedure would have taken a very long time because of the larger line of people. Visas cost $100 cash if you buy upon entry.

Singita Grumeti Camps in Tanzania

As I said, we saved the best for last. Sasakwa is like an English Manor sitting up on the hill overlooking the stunning Grumeti plain. Grumeti borders on the Serengeti. It is a vast plain with unlimited skies and sunsets. When the migration is going on, the plains are completely covered with Wildebeest, zebra, elephants and giraffe. And lots of predators sitting there watching the buffet. Sasakwa has the ultimate stable with about 25 horses in superb condition. Rooms are ultra luxe English cottages with fireplaces, antiques- the works! I could live there, happily. Even better is Singita’s tented Camp Sabora, nearby. Right our of Hemingway’s Africa. The Tents are completely finished with English aniques, Persian rugs, chic mobile safari furniture, crystal, silver and china. I have never seen anything like it. Totally glamorous!

Morning sunlight on the crystal and silver -Singita Sabora Tented Camp Tanzania

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Bush Breakfast Grumeti Plains Tanzania

Fabulous stables at Singita Saskwa Tanzania. You should see the Tack room!

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Livingroom Singita Saskwa

Exciting new mobile tented camp at Singita Grumeti

Most glam Luxury tent at Singita Sabora Tanzania

Dining tent Singita Sabora Tanzania

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Gavin Ford and Dylan Harriss of Africa Inscribed

On top of the Copties , Chyulu Hills

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Africa Inscribed

Our trip was planned and hosted by a new ground operator, Africa Inscribed. Partners Dylan Harriss and Gavin Ford are a perfect team. Dylan is the planner, organizer and ultimate detail man along with important input from Gavin. Gavin, formally with A&K, has been a top Safari Guide for all of Africa for 18 years. Together they are unstoppable. The biggest difference about this team is that they constantly check camps, and resorts-personally. So when we want a certain area, we can depend their knowledge and expertise. They have truly been there and experienced the properties. Little details like personal handwritten notes announcing our departure time for the next day along with a framed picture of something we saw that day gave our travels a new dimension. The bag tags they supply are metal with woven metal strings so they can’t be torn off. Very well
thought out. No stone left unturned. Africa Inscribed has a very bright future.

Best part of travel is coming home

We had such a fun, interesting learning experience, but I have to say the very best part of traveling is walking back into my Home! Home is truly where the heart is. I am so blessed to be able to see the world’s amazing places, but there is no place like home, and nothing more important than family. I got off the plane and went straight to Will’s 3rd TBall game. SO adorable!! He was more interested in drawing in the dirt with his toe than catching the ball!
Next trip is back to Kenya in May. Thanks for your interest.

Last night in Tanzania-photo courtesy of Caroline Wallace

cnn.com article “7 Trips you should NEVER book online!”

Fantastic article about the benefits of using a trusted travel professional on cnn.com by Christopher Elliott, Tribune Media Services. Very informative: http://www.cnn.com/2010/TRAVEL/01/15/booking.travel.online/index.html?hpt=Sbin

2009 Africa and Tanzania

One of my very favorite adventures this year was an unbelievable trip to South Africa and Tanzania. Saw the Singita Grumeti Camps-Sasakwa, faru Faru, and Sabora, Palahala Lodge, and Lupita on Lake Tanganika.

A little TOO close!