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Catherine Whitworth CTA
Sterling Brownell Travel
Catherinew@Sterlingtvl.com
Category Archives: India
Srilangram India
Mahaballiporam India
Peacock in the garden, Maderai India
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Catherine Whitworth
catherinew@sterlingtvl.com
Profile: http://www.brownelltravel.com/catherinewhitworth.html Travel Blog: https://catherinewhitworth.wordpress.com/
About Brownell Travel: http://www.brownelltravel.com/brownellvideo.html
PASSPORT NOTICE – due to constantly changing passport requirements, I recommend that for ANY travel outside the United States,
you travel with a US PASSPORT which is valid 6 months after your return.
View on the drive to Madurai India
Pilgrims at Sri Renagranatha Temple in Srilangram India
Sri Renaganatha Temple in Srinamgram
We met pilgrims who walk 104 Kilometers to visit their temples. They were resting in the courtyard of the temple. Srirangam is famous for Sri Renganatha temple which is one of the 108 vaishnava temples and is called Earthy Heaven (Boologa vaikundam). Srirangam boasts an historic past rich in conquest and civilization which is very old and it is proved by carbon dating test and containing the most ancient, genuine and recognizable traces left by the aboriginal Indians.
Starting on our trail
We started our adventure in the city of Chennai(formerly Madras) in the Tamil Nadu State of Southern India. Our first visit was to an outdoor museum called Mahaballiporam. The stones and carvings ar hundreds of thousands of years old.
Mahaballiporam India
Mahaballiporum near Chennai India
Working our way through Southern India
I am assaulted with a riot of color in the the structures, cars, costumes and sari’s. The simplest worker on the road is colorful and elegant. There is a dignity and peacefulness with the people we meet. They are so happy to meet us- their smiles light up their faces.
Toby Sinclair, our illustrious leader, is a bottomless fount of information about Indian History. Toby tidbits: there is a connection with New England and Southern India. Ice was shipped from NE. It was packed in sawdust in the early 1700’s and was a huge industry. The ship took 6 months to get from new England to Madras. It was off loaded to an icehouse in Madras. There were icehouses in Calcutta and Bombay also. The ice came from “kettle ponds” in Massachusetts. Walden’s pond was one of the Kettle Ponds.
Stairwell Taj Palace Bombay
Stairwell of the Taj Mumbai
Toby Sinclair
Yeardley Williams “What I will miss about India!”
My friend, Yeardley Williams wrote this. She was on the trip to India with us. She said it better that I could, so I asked her if I could send it to you. I posted a group of favorite pics on my blog, which can be accessed below. I am home and ready to work!
“I have just returned from an incredible 3 weeks in India, touring the palaces and forts of Rajasthan, going on tiger, wild game and bird safaris in 5 different national parks, cruising the Ganges at sunrise and sunset, participating in a Hindu Puja or prayer ceremony, visiting ancient temples, and seeing the truly beautiful and amazing Taj Mahal, again at sunrise and sunset. India is an overwhelming awakening of all one’s senses and an education in ancient history and how it survives today on the subcontinent. It is a complex country and must be taken as a whole while pondering the individual parts. We stayed in 5 star hotels and jungle lodges even while immersing ourselves in the life of the cities, national parks and countryside. Below are some impressions that are still with me:
What I will miss about India:
Being bowed to every morning and bowing back – the respect for life and all living things; the graciousness, good will, curiosity and big smiles of the Indian people; contentment combined with energy; an amazing diversity of interesting faces.
Beauty – of the countryside and the national parks; the elegance and beauty of women in colorful saris, vermillion parts, bindis, bangles and gold jewelry; colorful turbans of the men; the richness of textiles; the ornamentation and embellishment of temples and palaces with jewels, glass, mirrors, tiles; lusciousness of fruit and vegetable stands; marigolds, roses and dahlias; silk merchants in ancient alleyways marketing sumptuous fabrics; patterns, textures and color everywhere.
The vibrant history, culture and art of the subcontinent – learning about ancient cultures like the Mauryan, Gupta, Chandela and Mughul empires and the British Raj.
Diversity and intricacy of Hindu, Arab, and Indo-Asian architecture from palaces and forts of Rajasthan to the temples at Khajuraho to the Taj Mahal.
Learning about the interesting beliefs, religious practice and mythology of Hinduism, Buddhism, Jainism and Sikhism.
Marveling at the chaos of cows, dogs, camels, buffalo in the middle of the streets sharing space with cars, colorful decorated trucks, camel carts, auto rickshaws, people powered rickshaws, horse carriages and many, many busy pedestrians.
Natural world and wildlife – seeing 6 of the 1200 remaining tigers in the wild, a leopard, jackals, sloth bear, wild boar, langurs, deer and antelope like chital, sambar, nilgai, blackbuck, barking deer and swamp deer, crocodiles, and an amazing array of colorful and rare birds too numerous to name. Tracking a tiger on elephant back. Learning to identify alarm calls when a predator is approaching. Driving through teak forests, sal forests, banyan and ghost trees.
Our incredible guides and naturalists who were so knowledgeable and eager to share their love of their country – its wildlife, history and traditions.
A strong sense of the spiritual which undergirds and grounds everything. I don’t think it is possible not to be touched by the Indian desire and hope for truth, peace and enlightenment and a release from the chaos and cravings of the world. The sacredness and connection of all living things are palpable.
In summary, this is a marvelous destination for the adventurous of mind and heart. I highly recommend it!”
Toby Sinclair
India – as corrected by Toby Sinclair!
I asked Toby Sinclair my friend, guide and ultimate authority for all things India to correct a paragraph or two of my blog. It was so amusing, I am putting in the whole thing corrections and all. Corrections are in CAPS. Enclosed is a picture of him.
Let me start by saying that Tigers and Leopards are extremely elusive. Chances of seeing them are slim and none. The only consolation is that there are many many other fascinating animals to see in the parks. Chittle (CHITAL) deer and Samba (SAMBAR) Deer, Sloth Bears, White monkeys with black faces (HANUMAN LANGURS), Eagles, Kingfishers, Storks, cranes, and a large variety of predator birds.
At this time of the year game drives are very very cold in the morning. One needs glove, stocking caps, windbreakers, and fleece jackets. You can peel off layers, but it is really cold (WHEN YOU SET OUT IN THE HALF LIGHT BEFORE DAWN). The lodges supply hot water bottles and blankets, and you need al of it. You must have good binoculars and a long lens camera. Often the tigers and leopards are in brush and (BUT NOT NECESSARILY) far away. Afternoons get warm so you can take off layers. Drive can be very dusty, hot, and very very bumpy. There can be long periods of seeing nothing but beautiful jungle. Some jungles are teak, some are of a wood called Saab, and some are semitropical.
The parks we visited were Pench, Kahna (KANHA), Bangadavgarh (BANDHAVGARH), and Panna. We saw tigers and one leopard in the first three, and the last Panna was beautiful. There is an amazing temple complex called Khujahjo (AT KHAJURAHO)- I am slaying the spelling- that one should absolutely not miss when in Middle (CENTRAL) India. The Lodges were all different and each had it’s own personality: Baghvan, Banjar Toli (TOLA)- tented camp-Mahua Kohti (KOTHI), and Pasha Garh.
We are now in Ranthanbor (RANTHAMBHORE TIGER RESERVE) Preserve- the biggest (BY NO MEANS THE BIGGEST) and best of all. It was the hunting reserve of the Maharaja of Jaipur.The park was nationalized by the Brisitsh (NO…IT REMAINED WITH THE JAIPUR FAMILY TILL THE EARLY 1960S) and turned into a park in 1974. We had the distinct pleasure of meeting the first park director Fateh Singh rathore, who photographed the tigers in that park for 30 years. His driver for those 30 years had a son Salim Ali, and Salim was our guide. I would send any client with Salim unless he is off filming with a crew from BBC, National Geographic or Toby Sinclair. Toby did the film Land of the Tiger- a must see on Nat Geo channel(6 HOURS FOR THE BBC/PBS) and it was our privilege to have him with us guiding the trip the all the way till he had to leave in Varanasi. He is off working on a film about the Black Tiger at the present.
We sighted 2 tigers the first days at Ranthambore, and on the 2nd afternoon had an unbelievable adventure! To be continued….
Favorite Photos from India
I have downloaded some of my very favorite pictures from India to Picasa. You may access them through this web address:
http://picasaweb.google.com/cwhit6/FavoritesOfIndia02?feat=email#
Enjoy!
The last day …
For the last afternoon game drive at Ranthambore only Martha Gaughan,
Suhail and I visited the park. The rest of the girls stayed at
Vanyavilas. Upon entering the second gate to the park, we had the privilege of meeting Salim’s father who was Fateh Singh Rathore’s driver( the 1st
director of Ranthambore National park). Salim’s father drove Fateh
Singh Rathore for 30 years, and they photographed tigers for 8 books.
As I wrote in the last blog, Salim’s father looked at us and said”the
tigress awaits”. Which of course threw us into a fit of excitement.
True to his word and because Salim is such an instinctive guide, we
saw a rare happening- a tiger charging a Shambar deer!
THEN we followed the tiger(who missed the deer) 2 more times and that
video is also amazing.
Tiger tracking!
Tiger photos!
I’m home and processing this amazing trip to India. Over the next week, I will upload photos and videos from one of the world’s most exciting destinations!
Tiger sighting!
Getting ready to tiger track on elephants
India … Highlights so far!
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Saddath/Ganges/Amber Fort
Yesterday we went to Varanasi. the oldest city in India, maybe in the world. Near there, Buddha made his first sermon- Saddath. We took a river cruise on the Ganges the most sacred river in India to see the evening ceremony. Quite a spectacle. Thousands of people (pilgrims) gather on the steps called Ghats( pronounced Gots) and celebrate a ceremony by the Brahmin priests. Lots of singing and chanting, incense and dancing. Toby, our amazing guide, continues to regale us with information about the history of religion, especially Hindism and Buddhism and how it fits into world history. I have some wonderful lectures of him talking on video. Yesterday we took another crruise on the Ganges for sunrise and it was amazing. The Hindus feel sunrise is the most sacred time because the sun’s reflection forms a Lingium on the Ganges. Today we are at the Rambagh Palace. We will go to Amber Fort today, one of my favorite forts. One used to ride elephants up to the fort, but conservationists like Toby are trying to get that stopped because of mistreatment of the elephants. Toby left us last night to go work on a fiming for the black tiger in Assam. We will miss him, but now have the head of the company Suhail with us. Looking forward to completing our tour with him!
Varanasi-World’s Oldest City
We have been thru the 4 camps. Each camp had wonderful accomodatons. I videoed the rooms. Of the 4 camps, Bangavdharh Had the most tigers and leopards. All camps had wondeful birds and other animals. Of course we were looking for Tigers. Seeing one is very exciting! We are in Varanasi now, the oldest city in the world and one of the most spiritual. We will be going to Saddarth where Buddha preached his first sermon this afternoon
Mahua Kothi and Tiger video
We are at the third camp Mahua Kothi. Very very good camp.
http://sharing.theflip.com/session/e316022c2a19e963a4903b0c8e1a4f8d/video/9889319
Toby Sinclair – Our world renowned tour guide!
One of the most amazing parts of this journey is our tour guide, the world famous conservationist, filmmaker and photographer, Toby Sinclair. He was responsible for the India volume of the Planet Earth Series
More information about his experience can be found http://www.indiasafaris.com/the_photographer
First Tiger Sighting!
We saw our first tiger today and she was gorgeous! HUGE and had two cubs. What a thrill!! At Bagh Van today. Pench National Park in the middle of India where Jungle Book was written. Teak forest jungle. Today was a wonderful birthday present for Meg Nolan, our leader. We are driving through the countryside now to the next park – Kahana.
First Tiger Sighting
We saw our first tiger today and she was gorgeous! HUGE and had two cubs. What a thrill!! At Bagh Van today. Pench National Park in the middle of India where Jungle Book was written. Teak forest jungle. Today was a wonderful birthday present for Meg Nolan, our leader. We are driving through the countryside now to the next park – Kahana.
Mehrangarh Fort, The Blue City of Jodhpur, Rohat
We are enjoying this amazingly beautiful country. Please see the picture of Mehrangarh Fort and note the intricate latticed windows, elaborately carved panels and curved porches. The people are wonderful! We have enjoyed Jodhpur and its golden sands. The architecture is simply breathtaking!
Mehrangarh Fort, The Blue City of Jodhpur, Rohat
We are enjoying this amazingly beautiful country. Please see the picture of Mehrangarh Fort and note the intricate latticed windows, elaborately carved panels and curved porches. The people are wonderful! We have enjoyed Jodhpur and its golden sands. The architecture is simply breathtaking!
Mumbai and Mihir Garh
After a safe journey, we begin at the Trident Hotel (www.tridenthotels.com) near the airport in Mumbai getting ready to go to Mihirgarh. Travel and Leisure listed this magnificent property as one of the top 50 most romantic destinations in the world:
( http://www.travelandleisure.com/hotels/mihir-garh-rajasthan)
Mihir Garh
Rohet
Pali, Rajasthan, India
Adventures in India … and so it begins!
I am en route to India with good friends and am thrilled! We will be tiger tracking from January 21 returning February 15 and visiting five star properties throughout India. Please follow along with me – I will update you daily with photos and videos of this wonderful adventure!























