Arrived Nairobi. Our guides: Gavin Ford and Dylan Harriss of Africa Inscribed

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Catherine Whitworth CTA

Massai Mara

We took a charter to the Massai Mara- safarilink. It was a caravan type of plane and flew so low, we could see the country below beautifully. 
In the Mara we stayed at Mara Plains , owned by the same company that has Ol Donyo Waus – Great Plains. We knew we would have lovely tents for accomodations and we were not disappointed. My room was right on the river with hippo below. In the night I thought one was in my room the noise was SO LOUD! the usual plan was a game drive in the early morning before breakfast,so we could get a good view of predators on the hunt. Then quick  breakfast back at the camp, later lunch under a huge evergreen, afternoon break and then back in The car for afternoon drive. Dinner is at the camp. We were so fortunate to see several prides of lions. Gavin is a big bidwatcher, so we saw hundreds of special birds all during the drives. One evening we got caught in an enormous thunderstorm on the plains. The light show was just breathtaking. We had to have our sundowners in the jeep with the rain and lightening all around us. Quite fun. In the Mara we visited quite a few camps for inspection: Intrepid Mara, Explorer, Rekoro, and Pirini lion camp. Also Sanctuary Olonana, Bateleur, and Kitchwa Tempo.

Hippos in the Mara

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Thunderstorm boiling up in the Mara

Birds at Lewa House

Cheetah at Lewa

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Bathroom Sirokoi

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Cheetah in Lewa

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Lewa Downs

Lewa Wildlife  conservancy  is an amazing idea of a small group of people who wanted to preserve and conserve Indigenous animals game in north Kenya. Started by Ian Craig, they have grown to 17 projects protecting wildlife in the Lewa Conservancy.  We stayed at Lewa  House one of the camps in Lewa Downs. Game sighting is plentiful. Right after landing, on the way to the camp, we saw a pair of white rhino. Specialties of  Lewa are reticulated giraffe, Grevey zebra, white rhino, black rhino, hippo, and  elephants, which we saw in abundance. We also saw Cheetah, we rode right into the middle of a large group of breeding elephants- yikes! We  visited a fabulous 5* camp recommended by Richard Boone of Ol Donyo Waus, called Sirokoi.  A really polished, glamourous amazing property. I have attached some pictures. I would happily go back there again. 
Lewa house was set on the plains under fever trees. Beautiful setting. During lunch we watched a spectacular display of the area birds, and a mongoose on the prowl – our first kill. Accommodations are more simple, but comfortable. Great for a more moderate budget. 

Flying to Lamu on Kenya’s coast by Safari Link

We are back on the charter today- another caravan, flying to the island of Lamu on the Indian ocean. Tonight we are staying at Manda Bay. We will inspect peponi, beach house, and red pepper while we are visiting Lamu. 

Lamu
I have always heard that Lamu is a heavenly beach destination. Everything  I have heard was confirmed in spades. We arrived in the afternoon and took a boat directly to Manda Bay. Gorgeous coconut palms greeting us on the beach. We dropped our luggage and went immediately to see a special surprise: thousands of Northern  Carmine  bee- eaters. Thousands and thousands clustered and flying in huge clouds. It was such a spectacular sight. I will never forget it. We then got on a Dhow and had our cocktail cruise. While watching the sundown. Fabulous way to start a beach vacation.  Dinner was under the stars, on the beach. The food everywhere we have been has been incredible. This evening we had fresh prawns in our appetizer and red snapper. Lamu is a terrific fishing destination on the Indan Ocean off the coast of Kenya. An easy scheduled charter from many camps. I find that alot of clients like the down time on a beach after Safari. The next morning we went to see several hotels. Garden House, Shella house, Palm House, and the fabulous Beach House. All of these properties are in the city center of Lamu. They have several stories, so lots of steps to go from living room to bedroom, etc. We visited Peponi the delightful family run hotel, Peponi, right on the edge of the city, on the harbor. Across the bay on Manda Island is a spectacular new property called Majlis. Owned by an Italian family, we were hosted by Stefano Moccia, one of the sons. The artwork in the compound was the best I’ve seen in Kenya. Including major American contemporary art.  I will happily return and feel very comfortable putting clients there. Rooms were bright, the furnishings and decorative accessories were terrific. 
We actually stayed at another former private villa, Red Pepper. Soaring open rattan ceilings, very theatrical. I loved it. Only one room had air-conditioning and we suggested that they put it in all the rooms. The night is very still and weather in Lamu is HOT. 

Heading to Tanzania-Singita Grumeti’s!

Best camps are for last and we are on our way to Tanzania to Singita Sabora and Singita Sasakwa.  As good as it gets!!! Can’t wait to see them again! 
A note about the visa situation: get your visa before coming to Tanzania and be sure to have your Yellow fever shots documented on the yellow card. We flew on by charter, if we had flown in commercially, the visa application line and procedure would have taken a very long time because of the larger line of people. Visas cost $100 cash if you buy upon entry.

Singita Grumeti Camps in Tanzania

As I said, we saved the best for last. Sasakwa is like an English Manor sitting up on the hill overlooking the stunning Grumeti plain. Grumeti borders on the Serengeti. It is a vast plain with unlimited skies and sunsets. When the migration is going on, the plains are completely covered with Wildebeest, zebra, elephants and giraffe. And lots of predators sitting there watching the buffet. Sasakwa has the ultimate stable with about 25 horses in superb condition. Rooms are ultra luxe English cottages with fireplaces, antiques- the works! I could live there, happily. Even better is Singita’s tented Camp Sabora, nearby. Right our of Hemingway’s Africa. The Tents are completely finished with English aniques, Persian rugs, chic mobile safari furniture, crystal, silver and china. I have never seen anything like it. Totally glamorous!

Exciting new mobile tented camp at Singita Grumeti

Africa Inscribed

Our trip was planned and hosted by a new ground operator, Africa Inscribed. Partners Dylan Harriss and Gavin Ford are a perfect team. Dylan is the planner, organizer and ultimate detail man along with important input from Gavin. Gavin, formally with A&K, has been a top Safari Guide for all of Africa for 18 years. Together they are unstoppable. The biggest difference about this team is that they constantly check camps, and resorts-personally. So when we want a certain area, we can depend their knowledge and expertise. They have truly been there and experienced the properties. Little details like personal handwritten notes announcing our departure time for the next day along with a framed picture of something we saw that day gave our travels a new dimension. The bag tags they supply are metal with woven metal strings so they can’t be torn off. Very well
thought out. No stone left unturned. Africa Inscribed has a very bright future.

Invisible edge pool next to pond at Vil Uyana

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Catherine Whitworth CTA
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10 March, 2011 10:44

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Catherine Whitworth CTA
An independent associate of Sterling Brownell Travel
catherinewhit@sterlingtvl.com

Mahaballiporum near Chennai India

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Site visit to Amangiri in Utah- Wow!!

View from a room

Pool at Amangiri wraps around a mesa.

Sight from a Mesa View suite

I was invited to visit the new Amangiri while I attended the Virtuoso Conference in Las Vegas.

 What a day! We started by being treated to a helicopter flight to the bottom of the Grand Canyon by Papillion Air. They are the ones that you want to contract for a helicopter excursion to see the Grand Canyon. Wow, wow, wow  is all I can say!!! Upon landing at the bottom of the Grand Canyon, Aman Resorts hostesses brought out the Champagne!! Veuve Clicquot no less- I love that orange lable!  Nothing short about those cute girls! We then flew on the the fabulous Amangiri Resort. We got to look at all the amazing rooms, suites and Spa. They are set up in the middle of the most gorgeous and emormous boulders in the desert. The most amazing views I have seen in a while. Most guests say that they did not stay long enough. There is so much to do.  Boasting one of the most dramatic landscapes in the USA with deep canyons and towering plateaus, the region has been home for centuries to the native Navajo and Hopi tribes yet is sparsely populated and presents the raw landscape for which the American Southwest has become famous. Activities include 

treks, guided hikes and biking

Amangiri guests may enjoy treks and guided hikes, customised rock climbing, via ferrata (fixed climbing routes) and canyoneering, as well as recreational and advanced biking. Our expert team of guides can teach guests the basics of GPS navigation, map reading, rope techniques and desert travel, as well as providing an introduction to the ecology, geology and human history of the area. For guests who are interested in a more in-depth study of this diverse environment, Amangiri will arrange for expert scientists, geologists and naturalists from the region to be available for tours and lectures.

boating trips

Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, with the pristine waters of Lake Powell, slickrock domes and sandy bays, provides access to some of the most amazing scenery and geological formations on the Colorado Plateau, as well as numerous prehistoric cliff dwelling and rock art sites. Named in honour of Civil War veteran and explorer John Wesley Powell, the lake has almost 3,200 kilometres (2,000 miles) of shoreline. Boating day trips provide the ideal platform for enjoyment of the turquoise waters where guests may swim and kayak. For those who enjoy fishing, the lake is famous for its striped bass, walleye and largemouth bass.

archaeological tours

Guests may also experience the history and culture of the region with Amangiri’s natural history, palaeontology and archaeological tours which provide insight into species diversity, prehistoric occupation, Navajo storytelling, culture and art.

scenic tours

From hot air ballooning and scenic helicopter or fixed wing flights to equestrian adventures departing directly from the resort, guests have a unique opportunity to experience the area’s sweeping landscape, canyons, peaks and mesas.
Amangiri is the ideal launching pad to enjoy customised National Park and Monument Tours to the Grand Canyon’s North and South Rims, Bryce and Zion National Parks, Rainbow Bridge, Grand Staircase – Escalante, Vermillion Cliffs National Monuments and Monument Valley in the Navajo Nation – the largest Native American Nation in the US covering over 70,000 square kilometres (27,000 square miles).

I am quoting their website.   http://www.amanresorts.com/amangiri/home.aspx

I am definately going back when I can really stay and explore the area.

Unbelievable Elephant Experience!

Exquisite Asian Flowers!

The flowers here are so exquisite that I am thinking of planning a Garden Tour!  Let me know if you are interested.

Toby Sinclair

Tiger sighting

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Tiger tracking!

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Birds of India

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Getting ready to tiger track on elephants

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Tiger Tracking

2009 Africa and Tanzania

One of my very favorite adventures this year was an unbelievable trip to South Africa and Tanzania. Saw the Singita Grumeti Camps-Sasakwa, faru Faru, and Sabora, Palahala Lodge, and Lupita on Lake Tanganika.

A little TOO close!