Jack’s has no electricity after 5PM so when we returned to our tents for bed, we had lanterns. An interesting experience for me, I had never turned on a lantern, and when I move it it immediately went out- plummeting me in complete blackness. Fortunately I could put my hands on the trusty flashlight that Africa Inscribed had supplied us, ran out waving it, and got one of the staff to teach me the ins and outs of lighting and shutting down a lantern. Another new skill.
Next morning I was awakened by a lion’s roar- what a wakeup call!!
Game drive and bush breakfast were in store. I couldn’t think of a better way to start the day. Then we hopped back on our lovely PC12 and flew off to Vumbra Plains
We had the pleasure of taking a walk with the local bushmen. Some the new skills we learned were eating sour berries, catching small wildlife with a stick trap, and cleaning a scorpion’s eyes. As the sun was setting, the tribe went into a trance dance in a circle around a fire. A totaling memorizing experience, it depends on the tribal chief’s mood. He and 2 elders dance around a fire with the tribal ladies chanting. He works himself into a trance, contacting his ancestors. Watching the fire, under a canopy of endless stars, with the dancing and chanting is an experience I will never forget.
First stop was Jack’s Camp. The camp, named after Jack Bousefield, a legendary pioneer of this region, is a permanent, tented camp built with considerable elegance, understated style and by the soft lights of the paraffin lamps in the evenings. There are animals and birds that live here, not found anywhere else. The tents are decorated with Persian carpets, old period furniture, beds with wooden headboards and decorative drapes. Hot water and flush toilets add a comforting touch and the drapes around the beds in the bedroom area keep out the Mosquitos at night. Safari Chic.
We are on a journey with my favorite safari operators, Africa Inscribed.
Dylan Harriss and Gavin Ford started the company five years ago, and are a force to be reckoned with, on the safari scene. Based in South Africa, AI specializes in white glove private travel. Gavin, recognized as one of Africa’s premier guides has been escorting adventurers for over 30 years. They come by their expertise the expensive way, spending at least 200 days a year exploring, and experiencing camps and lodges all over Africa. No detail is too small. They build strong relationships with camp owners and staff. We partner with Africa Inscribed to make sure our clients have the best personal private experience .
Johannesburg is usually an overnight because international flights land too late in the day to connect with another airline. I recommend at least one day in Johannesburg for a tour with Robin Binckes who will do a visit to historical sites of South Africa starting with a breakfast intensive history of SA. By starting with a historical background, the entire trip takes on a different meaning if you are staying in SA
Traveling in Africa is a love affair .
When I wake up the first morning in Africa, I find my senses tingling.
It reaches into your heart and turns on a switch. You are alive, senses are on high alert.
Adjectives come to mind: clarity, primal, life changing, striking a deep cord, it is like coming home to a warm place.
Al Maha Desert Resort and Spa in the desert outside of Dubai. A member of Starwood Luxury Collection, this resort is quite intriguing. Offering over the top desert tented experience, the Al Maha is in a category by itself. Activities include camel trekking, falconry, dune driving, archery, and wildlife exploration excursions.
Chatwal Hotel NY- a Virtuoso property
Image courtesy of Song Saa
Highlights of PURE
My focus was mostly on SE Asia and Africa, but I found some incredible new properties and Suppliers from all over the world.
Song Saa-Cambodia- At the top of my list.
Brand new 5 star luxury island resort off the coast of Cambodia. To get there one would fly to Phonm Phen and helicopter, or fly to Siem Reap and fly a shuttle.
Tiger Blue- Indonesia – a beautifully fitted Charter Junk that sails the Indonesian islands.
Some set dates for 2013. Really looks like a spectacular option for SE Asia.
Estancia Vik Jose Ignacio- Uruguay-
Artistic, food and wine experience. Fabulous property combines with its sister resort 5 minutes away on the beach.
Denis Private Island- Seycelles
a lovely private island alternative to North Island, and Fregate. Cottages looked very comfortable, and lots of activities.
In Any Event- UK
Darling ladies that are incredibly connected to any country house or higher up in the UK. They have behind closed door access to private gardens, homes, people,etc.
Baines River Camp- Zambia- Luxury camp located on the Zambizi. Lodgings looked upscale and delightful.
Selous Camps in Tanzania- More authentic Safari experience.
Castiglion del Bosco- Near Siena owned by the Ferragamo family, this villa is done so beautifully and elegantly one could move here.
Villa des Orangers- Marrakech- The place to stay in Marrakech
Camp Ya Kanzi- Chyulu Hills, Kenya- Highly environmental luxury camp with a huge focus on giving back to the tribes that surround them.
Tsawlu Kalahari Reserve-South Africa Relais & Chateaux Luxury Camp on the Kalahari Desert. Everything is carefully thought out. Game drive at your leisure- service is designed to revolve around the guests and their wishes.
Maison des Reves- Morocco- Extraordinary Kasbah and Desert camp experiences.
Westin Palace Madrid
I am impressed with the Westin Palace. It does not feel like a large hotel.
The concierge personally called me in the US before I left to make sure my transfer times were correct.
Transfers went beautifully, I was met at the airport after baggage claim.
Nice driver, spoke perfect English, not too chatty.
The car was a brand new Mercedes or BMW. It was dark.
Check in was speedy because I am a Starwood member and there is a dedicated place for members to check in.
I made arrangements for dinner at the Rotunda- their restaurant. Traditional elegant restaurant with a huge stained glass dome covering most of the round room.
Drinks were well presented, it was the largest G&T I have ever been served.
The Lobby was elegant, large and welcoming. Furnishings were Spanish antiques.
I was given an Executive suite and the television had a welcome to me on the screen.
Room 406 had a mirrored foyer/hallway, leading into the bedroom.
The room was short walk from the elevator.
There was a small balcony and the door opened for fresh air.
Rooms were inviting, bright, and large – you could actually put on makeup in the bathroom. One bedroom wall was dedicated to closets that were mirrored with a traditional window pane paneling.
I loved the hallways done with dark wood, but well lit and the carpeting was an elegant Persian pattern.
A great mix of tradition with our modern lifestyle. Comfortable, and wonderful personal service.
Having Andalusian Gazpacho, and Filet of Sole. Love this hotel and crazy about Madrid!!
Spectacular party.
A record 3900 consultants and suppliers from all over the world attended Virtuoso Week in Las Vegas. 312,000, 4 minute appointments were accomplished, bring the travel world together for their annual meeting.
Always fun and absorbing, one departs with complete brain overload.
For me, it brings new and wonderful resorts, tour companies, travel ideas, and reinforces ones I already know about.
Some of the new properties I discovered were Upper House (a spectacular hotel in Hong Kong), the fabulous new hotel Siam from Bangkok, Ballyfin, a stunning new manor house hotel in Ireland. A very pleasant surprise was hearing about a hotel thy has been right under my nose, the St.Regis Washington DC. Right across from the White House, it is a gorgeous property.
Starwood hotels have unveiled some new properties and reopened some new renovations like the Gritti Palace in Venice, St. Regis Bahia Resort in Puerto Rico, St.Regis Bal Harbor.
I always return home completely invigorated and ready to share my new destination ideas and activities. The energy and passion during Virtuoso Week is highly contagious.
Vichit Mukura
Executive Thai Chef, Mandarin Oriental Bangkok
Born in the seaside resort city of Pattaya in the province of Chonburi, Chef Vichit Mukura developed a passion for cooking at an early age.
His career in the culinary industry spans over two decades during which he has worked in various hotels around Thailand (plus a brief stint in Japan) working his way from a cook to Chef status. Today, as Executive Thai Chef of The Oriental, Bangkok, he is in charge of the complete process from kitchen operations to menu selection of the hotel’s two Thai food restaurants, Sala Rim Nam (Thai lunch buffet and set Thai dinner) and Rim Nam Terrace (à la carte Thai dinner). Moreover, Chef Vichit is an instructor at The Oriental Hotel Apprenticeship Programme (OHAP), as well as overseeing the Oriental Professional Thai Chef Programme (OPTC). During his time at The Oriental, Bangkok, Chef Vichit has cooked for Royalty, Heads of State and celebrities.
In addition to his responsibilities as Executive Thai Chef of The Oriental, Bangkok, Chef Vichit is also a widely-respected authority on Thai cuisine and writes regularly for several food as well as lifestyle magazines (Thai food column). Furthermore, he has appeared as a Guest Chef on many TV cooking programmes, both local as well as international. Chef Vichit’s family owns and operates a very successful restaurant in Pattaya.
An interesting side note, the Mandarin Oriental is launching a new Chef’s Table. I will post the announcement and information in my next entry.
YAAM SOM O GUB GOONG GAI
Herbed pomelo salad with prawns and chicken
Ingredients for dressing
50 g prawn, minced
25 g chicken, minced
200 g thick coconut milk
8 g chili paste oil
3 g chili paste
5 g salt
10 g lime juice
14 g white sugar
8 g coconut sugar
Method
In a sauce pan, heat 50 grams of the coconut milk over a medium heat then add the prawns and the chicken to stir-fry until cooked. Add the rest of the coconut milk. Bring to the boil then mix in the chili paste and the chili paste oil. Season with the salt, white sugar, palm sugar and the lime juice to taste.
Ingredients for pomelo salad
300 g pomelo segment, flaked
200 g dressing (from above)
40 g chicken breast, boiled and shredded
70 g prawns, boiled
8 g shallots, deep-fried
4 g garlic, deep-fried
16 g peanuts, deep-fried
2 g coconut meat, shredded and roasted
Method
place the pomelo in a bowl; add in the prawns and chicken breast. Mix in the dressing and toss well. Then add in the shallots, garlic and peanuts. Toss lightly. Sprinkle with coconut meat and garnish with coriander leaves and shredded big red chilies.
I am incredibly privileged to have received recipes for my favorite dishes from the Mandarin Oriental Bangkok. Sticky rice with Mangos and Pomelo Salad. Here is the recipe for sticky Rice with Mangos from Executive Thai chef Vichit Mukura – Oriental Baan Rim Naan. His bio follows.
The Oriental Baan Rim Naam
KHOW NIEW MAMUANG
Coconut sticky rice with mango
Ingredients for coconut mixture (part 1)
1.5cupsthick coconut milk
170gramswhite sugar
8 gramssalt
1 leafpandanus leaf
Method
– mix thick coconut milk, white sugar, salt and pandanus leaf together in a sauce pan and heat them over medium heat until boiling. Strain them and set aside
Ingredients for sticky rice (part 2)
2cupsraw sticky rice (Khiew Ngoo)
Method
– rinse raw sticky rice until the water is transparent and soak them for 5 hrs. at least or over night , then rinse well again and strain them
– on the stainless tray with cheese cloth, put the rinsed sticky rice on and wrap them with the same cheese cloth and bring to steam for ½ hr. until cooked
How to do the coconut sticky rice
– pour the coconut mixture (from part 1) in cooked sticky rice (still hot
from part 2), then stir them until well mixed, cover them tightly about 15 mins
– remove the cover and stir them again, then cover about 15 more mins to be well blended
– served the coconut sticky rice with ripe mango
The Siam, a spectacular luxury hotel that has just opened in Bangkok in June, lives up to all it’s abundant hype. A Bill Bensley design, it is a feast for the eyes. Owned by a prominent family in Bangkok, I heard Mr. Bensley was given carte blanche to do whatever he felt was appropriate. I have to say it is one of his best efforts.
Mr. Bensley incorporated four of Jim Thompson’s houses with contemporary elements ( Jim Thompson – fascinating American character that single handedly started the Thai Silk industry after World War 2 and disappeared in the 60’s after walking into the Malaysian jungle- http://www.jimthompson.com. A whole subject unto himself.)
One of the owners is a prolific antique collector; a popular actor and singer, his collection is seen everywhere. As a former antique dealer, I was blown away with his enthusiastic , eclectic collection. The hotel even has a screening room. On either side of the screen is a collage of old movie tickets on a pair of panels. One of the restaurants, with highly regarded Thai cuisine, utilizes one of the antique Thai houses. Food was excellent and the setting was delightful. Located on the Chao Praya, in the elegant Dusit neighborhood one is in a more peaceful part of the city. The hotel is planning to take clients sightseeing by boat- the Grand Temple is nearby. Another interesting aspect of activities offered at the Siam is kickboxing. The hotel has a ring and lessons for guests in their ample, enormous gym. As a guest, one can take lessons, and if you stay long enough , you will become a proficient kick boxer! Hmmm…
With a passionate commitment to supporting and protecting the environment, SS Yao Noi has been built as an all natural resort with a very light ecological footprint. They expect to be zero emmssion by 2012. A holistic resort that aims to change your outlook about your health and the environment. They even grow their own mushrooms! All food – except the goat cheese-comes from no farther than 10 miles from the resort, and spanking fresh. They are striving to make your life healthier as well as making you more aware of your environment. World famous for their Spa, treatments are certainly as good as I have experienced anywhere.
Six Senses Yao Noi is situated on a small island in Phang Nga Bay, an area famed for its natural beauty, especially its limestone island mountains in the sea which provide idyllic views from the resort. Built in an eco-friendly manner on and around almost 24 acres of natural tropical vegetation the resort exemplifies the Six Senses philosophy of Redefining Experiences from arrival to departure. Oversized daybeds, soft organic cotton linen, architectural tree-house and rustic timber furnishings, endless culinary options and all day butler service is your invitation to the Six Senses Slow Life* – at this pace, you may never want to leave. This paragraph is courtesy of thei website, but I could not have said it better.
Best Butler I have ever encountered – taking notes on our daily needs. Number 1!
A little slice of heaven, I think this is one of the most beautiful hotels and settings I have ever experienced. It was filmed in the movie Hangover 2 as the destination for the “wedding”. Service is far beyond anything I have encountered, and Asian service is legendary!
Our butler is Kun Annie( Kun is a reference of respect), and I would REALLY like to take her home. She sees after our every wish, from laundry to boat tours of the islands, arranging transfers to our next destination, trips into the village, and as insignificant as how to to how to operate the TV. She appears at our poolside sala with pen in hand to take notes for our latest wishes. Oh my gosh.
The resort has three restaurants, a Thai, an International, and a Seafood restaurant.
We dinedin the Thai restaurant last night, and the Chicken soup in Coconut milk was the best I have ever tasted. Tonight will be the Seafood restaurant.
One other observation: the music at the pool is outstanding sort of Buddha Bar- Cafe Costes compilations. Recipes are coming from Phulay Bay’s French chef and I will post them soon.
Mandalay is the ancient capital of Burma, established by King Thibau in 1852. He built a palace surrounded by a 2mile square moat. The palace wall has 12 gates- 3 gates on each side – only the east gate is open to the public. The original gold covered palace was bombed by the British during WW2 and the government built a small replica in the 1990’s.
One original structure from the Palace is still standing, called the Golden Palace. It had been moved in 1860 to a then country location guarded by a monastery. We can see the spectacular intricate teak wood carved exterior, alas without the gilding, presently.
The interior did not weather as badly as the exterior and the original gilding can be seen. One can only imagine the sight of this building when it was covered in gold. The carving is still absolutely breathtaking.
Dispatches from the Road 