Flying to Lamu on Kenya’s coast by Safari Link

We are back on the charter today- another caravan, flying to the island of Lamu on the Indian ocean. Tonight we are staying at Manda Bay. We will inspect peponi, beach house, and red pepper while we are visiting Lamu. 

Lamu
I have always heard that Lamu is a heavenly beach destination. Everything  I have heard was confirmed in spades. We arrived in the afternoon and took a boat directly to Manda Bay. Gorgeous coconut palms greeting us on the beach. We dropped our luggage and went immediately to see a special surprise: thousands of Northern  Carmine  bee- eaters. Thousands and thousands clustered and flying in huge clouds. It was such a spectacular sight. I will never forget it. We then got on a Dhow and had our cocktail cruise. While watching the sundown. Fabulous way to start a beach vacation.  Dinner was under the stars, on the beach. The food everywhere we have been has been incredible. This evening we had fresh prawns in our appetizer and red snapper. Lamu is a terrific fishing destination on the Indan Ocean off the coast of Kenya. An easy scheduled charter from many camps. I find that alot of clients like the down time on a beach after Safari. The next morning we went to see several hotels. Garden House, Shella house, Palm House, and the fabulous Beach House. All of these properties are in the city center of Lamu. They have several stories, so lots of steps to go from living room to bedroom, etc. We visited Peponi the delightful family run hotel, Peponi, right on the edge of the city, on the harbor. Across the bay on Manda Island is a spectacular new property called Majlis. Owned by an Italian family, we were hosted by Stefano Moccia, one of the sons. The artwork in the compound was the best I’ve seen in Kenya. Including major American contemporary art.  I will happily return and feel very comfortable putting clients there. Rooms were bright, the furnishings and decorative accessories were terrific. 
We actually stayed at another former private villa, Red Pepper. Soaring open rattan ceilings, very theatrical. I loved it. Only one room had air-conditioning and we suggested that they put it in all the rooms. The night is very still and weather in Lamu is HOT. 

Afternoon sighting of a cloud of Northern Carmine long claws.

Singita Grumeti Camps in Tanzania

As I said, we saved the best for last. Sasakwa is like an English Manor sitting up on the hill overlooking the stunning Grumeti plain. Grumeti borders on the Serengeti. It is a vast plain with unlimited skies and sunsets. When the migration is going on, the plains are completely covered with Wildebeest, zebra, elephants and giraffe. And lots of predators sitting there watching the buffet. Sasakwa has the ultimate stable with about 25 horses in superb condition. Rooms are ultra luxe English cottages with fireplaces, antiques- the works! I could live there, happily. Even better is Singita’s tented Camp Sabora, nearby. Right our of Hemingway’s Africa. The Tents are completely finished with English aniques, Persian rugs, chic mobile safari furniture, crystal, silver and china. I have never seen anything like it. Totally glamorous!

Morning sunlight on the crystal and silver -Singita Sabora Tented Camp Tanzania

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Bush Breakfast Grumeti Plains Tanzania

Fabulous stables at Singita Saskwa Tanzania. You should see the Tack room!

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Livingroom Singita Saskwa

Exciting new mobile tented camp at Singita Grumeti

Most glam Luxury tent at Singita Sabora Tanzania

Gavin Ford and Dylan Harriss of Africa Inscribed

Africa Inscribed

Our trip was planned and hosted by a new ground operator, Africa Inscribed. Partners Dylan Harriss and Gavin Ford are a perfect team. Dylan is the planner, organizer and ultimate detail man along with important input from Gavin. Gavin, formally with A&K, has been a top Safari Guide for all of Africa for 18 years. Together they are unstoppable. The biggest difference about this team is that they constantly check camps, and resorts-personally. So when we want a certain area, we can depend their knowledge and expertise. They have truly been there and experienced the properties. Little details like personal handwritten notes announcing our departure time for the next day along with a framed picture of something we saw that day gave our travels a new dimension. The bag tags they supply are metal with woven metal strings so they can’t be torn off. Very well
thought out. No stone left unturned. Africa Inscribed has a very bright future.

Best part of travel is coming home

We had such a fun, interesting learning experience, but I have to say the very best part of traveling is walking back into my Home! Home is truly where the heart is. I am so blessed to be able to see the world’s amazing places, but there is no place like home, and nothing more important than family. I got off the plane and went straight to Will’s 3rd TBall game. SO adorable!! He was more interested in drawing in the dirt with his toe than catching the ball!
Next trip is back to Kenya in May. Thanks for your interest.

About

Catherine Whitworth is a Certified Travel Associate with Sterling Brownell Travel. Her destinations specialties are SE Asia, Thailand, and Hong Kong. Her favorite destinations are SE Asia, Africa, France, Italy and India. She has been successfully designing travel experiences for travelers for 18 years.

Setai New York

I had the pleasure of visiting the new Setai New York last February, and it was a stellar experience. Situated on Fifth Avenue between 35th and 36th street, it is an easy walk to theatre, restaurants, and shopping. Capella Hotels manages it so you know it is special. The rooms were so luxurious, I really hated to leave! Floor to ceiling windows, very large space, wall of closets, bathroom with soaking tub, tv hidden in the mirror and double sinks. The view was of the city with the Chrysler building thrown in for good measure. The fully equipped Spa has all the usual offerings plus a Hamman, and a beauty salon. The restaurant- AI Fiori was amazing, and I am sure to be one of the top restaurant choices immediately. I most definitely plan to visit again.

India …

I am assaulted with a riot of color in the the structures, cars, costumes and sari’s. The simplest worker on the road is colorful and elegant. There is a dignity and peacefulness with the people we meet. They are so happy to meet us- their smiles light up their faces.

Toby Sinclair, our illustrious leader, is a bottomless fount of information about Indian History. Toby tidbits: there is a connection with New England and Southern India. Ice was shipped from NE. It was packed in sawdust in the early 1700’s and was a huge industry. The ship took 6 months to get from new England to Madras. It was off loaded to an icehouse in Madras. There were icehouses in Calcutta and Bombay also. The ice came from “kettle ponds” in Massachusetts. Walden’s pond was one of the Kettle Ponds.

Taj Mahal Bombay

A few days ago, I had the pleasure of staying at the venerable Taj Bombay. I am delighted to say the renovation is perfect and it is ready for Primetime!! The colors are fresh and appealing everywhere I went, especially in the public rooms. The service was impeccable as only India can do it. I will place clients there with great confidence that they are in impeccable hands.

Taj Mumbai

View from the room

Reclining Buddha Pollonnawaru

Your pictures have been fantastic.Love every one of them. Enjoy for all,xo Martha

Reclining Buddha Pollonnawaru

Catherine – your pictures are great! This one reminds me a lot of the reclining Vishnu we saw last year.

Yeardley S. Williams
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Lizard at the Moonstone Mine

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Tintagel Hotel, Colombo Sri Lanka

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We made lots of new friends

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Reclining Buddha Pollonnawaru

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Tintagel Hotel, Colombo Sri Lanka

The last 2days we stayed in Colombo at the Tintagel. It is a beautifully designed hotel. It was the home of 2 Presidents of Sri Lanka. I am sending pictures. Food was good. Bar does not have a liquor license- odd, it has been opened for 3 years. The individual staff members were warm and friendly, but I found overall service terrible. The have some work to do. Our room was black- black floors and walls. Very high style, but hard to see. It has 10 individually styled rooms. We had lunch at the Gallery Cafe-again very stylish, there the food was divine and the service sparkling. They are both part of the Paradise Road group of properties.

Double sink bath Dutch House

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Dutch House, Galle Sri Lanka

When a client says to me: we won’t spend anytime in the room so book an inexpensive one, I have to change their mind. Travel is about exploring, learning and experiencing the location. Enriching your life. Part of that experience is your hotel. If you are surrounded with a beautiful sense of place, excellent service, relaxing sleep, great food, your travel experience will be immensely enhanced. And that is before you see the sites! Dutch house in Galle is that kind of special place. It is a historic villa, built in 1712 by the head of Dutch East India Company-also known as VOC. It is one of the oldest and best preserved Dutch Mansions in Galle. In it’s time it was the only house on the hill overlooking the hill and dominated the fort and harbour, where it’s occupants could see ships coming and going. The best part is that the interior decoration is equal to the outside house. Beautifully furnished with art and Dutch local Antiques, I feel like I am staying in a Dutch museum! I am In Heaven! Sun House, it’s sister hotel is equally stunning. I feel like I am on the set of the movie Elephant Walk.

Temple of the Tooth Relic – Kandy Sri Lanka

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Kandy Sri Lanka

Today, on our way to Kandy, we stopped by Heritance Kandalama-a hotel designed by world famous architect Jeffrey Bawa.  Brilliant! Reminds me of Howard Ruork’s philosophy in Ayn Rand’s The Fountainhead. He built the hotel to blend in to the mountain side. Vines are growing over the rooms, it is built with a lake on the edge. A gigantic rock outcropping forms on one side of the main  hallway in the lobby. 
Next was a visit to the holy Dambulla cave Temple.  The largest cave monastery in the country with a history going back to the 1st century BC. Each cave is lined with various sized Buddhas. The Temple has some spectacular wall and ceiling paintings. Only 300 steps straight up. Not for anyone with bad knees

Dambulla Caves

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Temple of Buddha’s Tooth Relic- Kandy, Sri Lanka

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Dambulla Caves Sri Lanka

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Sri Lanka

Today, on our way to Kandy, we stopped by Heritance Kandalama-a hotel designed by world famous architect Jeffrey Bawa.  Brilliant! Reminds me of Howard Roark’s philosophy in Ayn Rand’s The Fountainhead. He built the hotel to blend in to the mountain side. Vines are growing over the rooms, it is built on a lake on the mountainside. A gigantic rock outcropping forms on one side of the main  hallway in the lobby. 
Next was a visit to the holy Dambulla cave Temple.  The largest cave monastery in the country with a history going back to the 1st century BC. Each cave is lined with various sized Buddhas. The Temple has some spectacular wall and ceiling paintings. Only 300 steps straight up. Not for anyone with bad knees. 

Hotel Vil Uyana SriLanka

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Invisible edge pool next to pond at Vil Uyana

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Stairs to the muraled caves at Sigiriya

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Sri Lanka

Said to be the original garden of Eden, Sri Lanka- formerly Ceylon- is lush and so green. I have seen many varieties of trees and flowers from coconut palms to rubber trees. I have never seen bigger and fuller Frangipani. Mangos are in season. Acres, and acres of rice fields. Our first stop was the hotel Vil Uyana, a Small Luxury Hotel, which means Lake garden. Only 4 years old, it was delightful. One can drive from Colombo- about 3 hours or one can take a helicopter- 30 minutes. They have a pad. We were there because nearby are the 8th wonder of the world, Sigiriya and the ancient city of Polonnaruwa  – The ancient heart of Sri Lanka. An important royal capital with its well-preserved 12th century ruins & impressive stone culture recalls an inspired past. Although nearly 1000 years old, it is much younger than Anuradhapura and generally in better repair. The monuments are arranged in a reasonably compact garden setting and their development is easier to follow. 
We spent the morning climbing the spectacular Sigiriya rock fortress  with its rocky abode & water gardens. 1200 steps, yikes! Sigiriya is famous for its toadstool of golden-hued granite, protruding into the searing blue sky from a hot, flat wilderness of scrubland, which is transformed in the rainy season to a water garden. In the 5th century King Kashyapa domesticated the Lions Rock, by building a palace atop its summit. Sigiriya commemorates some of the turbulence of Sri Lanka’s history.
Evening was massage time- divine! Then gin and tonics by the invisible edge pool watching multitudes of birds including eagles, bee eaters, kingfishers, storks, egrets-and those are only the names I know. They were  everywhere. In the early morning we participated in a blessing ceremony for the beginning of the rice harvest. The whole hotel staff and some of the villagers were there. It was a privilege to attend this very moving ceremony. 

Kathakali dance

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Julie in full makeup

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Julie, Julie, Julie

On the last night of our amazing adventure, we attended a Kathakali Dance performance in Cochi. It is an elaborate classical dance, and we were looking forward to the costumes and the color as much as the dance itself. The troup is heavily made up and the colors are very vivid. Julie, who has kept us cracked up on the whole trip with her fabulous wit, surprised us by having the makeup done at the dance center before we arrived. We thought she did not feel well, and had decided not to come out with us. Were we surprised!!! No disrespect to the Classical dancers the performance was wonderful.

Views in the Backwaters of Kerala

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