Bedroom at Royal Malewane

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The Glamorous Royal Malewane – Thornybush Reserve South Africa

We are continuing our adventure with a visit to the grand dame of luxury camps, Royal Malewane. Located in Thornybush private Reserve, adjacent to greater Kruger National Park, Royal Malewane is the the standard all luxury camps wish to reach.
Family owned, the glamorous Royal Malewane offers unparalleled service, food, and the number one Spa in South Africa. Liz Biden is a very hands on proprietor; one sees her touch everywhere. Most of the staff have been there since the opening 13 years ago, which makes for a pleasant return. When they say welcome back, they mean it!

Tracking Lion with Africa Inscribed at Sabi Sands

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Tracking Cheetah in Zimbabwe

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Singita Pamushana

Southern Zimbabwe is stunning, visually. It is probably the most beautiful country we have visited. Green, heavily wooded areas with major rock formations forming ridges and canyons all around. The country seems untouched by the outside world- innocent and welcoming.
We are visiting Singita Pamushana and it is one of the most elegant camps I have seen. The lodge is set up on the top of a ridge, and the view over the lake of the rock hillside is amazing – especially with the sunset shining on it. We are greeted by Jason , and the camp staff – hands in the air waving- with a sparkling lemonade drink. Everyone is so happy to welcome our little band of travelers. Service and attention has been incredible everywhere we have been but it seems very special at Pamushana. We had dinner that night on the deck under a huge Jackelberry tree hung with lanterns. Jason told us about an Emmy award winning documentary filmmaker, Kim Wolhuter, who is doing a study on the property about cheetahs. He won one of his Emmys for a documentary about the misunderstood hyena, and he has moved to a study of cheetahs- their habits and daily life. He creates a relationship over several months with the animals and habituates them to his presence. By the end of the filming, he was running with the pack and filming in the middle of kills- literally in the middle of them. Of course we went out to find him the next morning. Our group had a jeep with no roof so we could roll through the heavy thicket to reach him. Kim was tracking cheetahs and we found him most generous in sharing where he was located and seeing those incredible cats. We heard the cheetahs call to each other and in the stillness we saw them turn on a dime and tear after some prey. The thunder of their paws on the forest floor was stupendous. What a thrill!!
He joined us for a dinner that evening and his stories about hyenas and the animals he documents for his films were riveting. I hope we can get him to the US to speak about animal conservation, land conservation, land management and how it all has to work in harmony. His efforts to save wildlife is fascinating. He is a gracious, engaging and delightful fellow.

On our nightstand is a poem by Wayne Visser, about Africa.
The poem is delightful, and stikes a chord with all of us .
Excerpts from it:
Africa calls to me
With the beat of her drums that mark my days
And the words of her poets that guide my ways
With the crash of the waves that hug her shores
And the sounds of the rain that soak her pores

Africa calls to me
With the crackle of fires that light her skies
And the rustle of leaves that swish her sighs
With the chant of her songs that move my feet
And the pulse of her heart that makes mine beat.

Vumbra Plains – Okavango Delta Botswana. View from the tent

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Vumbura Plains – Okavango Delta Botswana

Vumbra Plains is one of Wilderness resorts’ premier properties. Each of the suites has been constructed with a totally private view of the delta floodplains, and are shaded by ancient, tall Jackalberry trees. The rooms are all open-plan in design and have a sunken lounge, spacious bedroom, over-large shower (in-door and outside too), dressing area and writing desk. The outside decks have a comfortable sala, with large comfy cushions to snooze on and of course a small plunge pool for those torridly hot days! There is 24 hour electricity and bed lights for those comfy evenings with a book just before going to sleep in spacious softness, with percale sheets and duvets. In the winter months, a hot-blanket or a hot water-bottle are available. These cabins are a luxury indeed. All of the suites are linked to the main lodge by a raised wooden walkway at the back of the suites that allows the hippo and other game unobstructed access to the river, and allows safe access for guests too. The main lodge with a large fronted service area is spacious, has a dining area, a lounge and a seating area that is slightly separate from the main lounge.
A birdwatcher’s dream, one can sit out on their private deck and be totally entertained.
We took small boats down the river late one afternoon and had sundowners on the boats all tied together. Sunsets in Africa are unforgettable.
Game drives were terrific-hippos, lions, giraffe , elephant, Kudu, Oryx, ending with an incredible leopard sighting. I really hated to leave Vumbra Plains after a very short two days.

Lilac Breasted Roller- Okavanga Delta

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Sunrise Botswana

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Lion sighting

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Lion’s call

Jack’s has no electricity after 5PM so when we returned to our tents for bed, we had lanterns. An interesting experience for me, I had never turned on a lantern, and when I move it it immediately went out- plummeting me in complete blackness. Fortunately I could put my hands on the trusty flashlight that Africa Inscribed had supplied us, ran out waving it, and got one of the staff to teach me the ins and outs of lighting and shutting down a lantern. Another new skill.
Next morning I was awakened by a lion’s roar- what a wakeup call!!
Game drive and bush breakfast were in store. I couldn’t think of a better way to start the day. Then we hopped back on our lovely PC12 and flew off to Vumbra Plains

Checking out the Meerkats – Jack’s Camp Botswana

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Singita Sabora Tented Camp- amazing food quality from a tent!

Singita Sabora Tented Camp

Recipes from the Road: Malva Pudding- Singita Grumeti Camps

Singita Sasakwa- image courtesy of Singita

Singita Sasakwa- image courtesy of Singita

Recipes from the Road: Singita Grumeti Saskwa

Probably the finest resort in East Africa, Singita Sasakwa is unrivaled in elegance.
Patterned after an English Manor House, Sasakwa sits over the Grumeti Plain offering magnificent views of game below.

Recipes from the Road: picture courtesy of O&O Capetown

ROASTED PEARS WITH ORANGE-DATE PUREE, BRANDY ANGLAISE AND CRISP CINNAMON WAIVERS

9 pears, peeled, cored and quartered
1 cup sugar syrup
1/2 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
Pulp and pod of 1 vanilla bean
6 medjool dates, julienned, plus 3 chopped
1/3 cup freshly squeezed orange juice
¼ cup water
Pear-brandy anglaisse

Cook the pears with the sugar syrup, lemon juice and vanilla pulp and pod over medium heat for 10 minutes or until tender.
To prepare the dates: cook the julienned dates in orange juice until just warm. Remove the dates and reserve the juice. Dice 2 tablespoons of the dates for garnish.
To make the date puree, place 3 chopped dates in a blender with the water and the reserved orange juice. Puree for three minutes or until smooth.

Pear-brandy anglaisse
¼ cup sugar
½ cup cream
½ ripe pear, peeled, cored and diced
2 tablespoons brandy

Dissolve the sugar in the cream over medium heat. Add the pear and simmer for 4-5 minutes, or until the pear is softened. Puree the mixture and strain through a fine mesh sieve. Stir in the brandy. Re-blend just before serving.

Crisp cinnamon, ginger wafers
1 cup caster sugar
4½ oz golden syrup
1 stick plus 1 tbsp unsalted butter
1 tablespoon orange juice
1 teaspoon finely grated orange zest
4½ oz plain flour
½ teaspoon ground ginger
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

Preheat oven to 350°. Line 2 baking trays with greaseproof paper. Combine sugar, golden syrup, butter, orange juice and zest in a sauce pan over low heat until the butter has melted. Stir thoroughly, and then remove from the heat. Sift the flour and spices into a bowl and make a well in the center. Pour in the golden syrup mixture and stir until well combined and smooth. Drop small teaspoons of the batter onto the prepared baking trays, leaving 2 inches between each one to allow for spreading. Bake for 8 minutes, until an even golden brown. Remove from the oven and transfer to a wire rack to cool.

One and Only Capetown- picture courtesy of O&O

Recipes from the Road: One and Only Capetown- about the chef Rueben Riffel

A fairly new luxury hotel on the scene is the One and Only Capetown . I love the location, down by the waterfront. They have a particularily good children’s program and it lives up to the One and Only reputation for ultra Luxe accomodations. I especially like the villas that are separate from the main building. The restaurants are fabulous: Nobu- yes that one, and the wildly popular Reubens.
From One and Only’s bio page:
REUBEN RIFFEL, EXECUTIVE CHEF, ONE&ONLY CAPE TOWN

Internationally recognized for his award-winning restaurants in the Franschoek wine valley, Reuben Riffel opened the eponymous Reuben’s at One&Only Cape Town in October 2010, serving up wholesome bistro fare made from locally-sourced produce.

Having defied tremendous odds in apartheid South Africa to become one of Africa’s top chefs at 35, Reuben has come a long way from his home in Groendal where he grew up with 12 siblings. Required to live in an area allocated to Cape Coloreds, a mixed-race ethnic group, Reuben first mastered Cape Colored cuisine through his family, a style of cooking that continues to inspire him today.

Beginning as a kitchen hand, Reuben worked his way up the restaurant ranks in nearby Franschhoek, opening his first eatery there in 2004 that was promptly named South Africa’s Restaurant of the Year. Six months later he was named the country’s Chef of the Year. In 2008 he opened a second restaurant in Robertson, which led to the opening of his third restaurant in at One&Only Cape Town alongside the legendary Nobu.

The author of two celebrated cookbooks, Riffel’s most recent debut, Reuben Cooks Local, takes readers on a journey through one of South Africa’s most well-loved culinary repertoires showcasing local produce from the sea, earth, orchard and vine highlighting the sheer abundance of fresh local produce in South Africa and the Cape.

In November 2011, Riffel partnered with South African Airways to prepare some of his signature dishes for the airline’s Premium Class customers.

One and only also has a spectauclar wine cellar headed by Luvo Ntezo,
internationally recognized as one of the Best Young Sommeliers in South Africa.

Wellesley Knightsbridge opening in London 2012

I am delighted to hear that Stefano Lodi and his team are opening a fabulous new hotel in London – December 2012.
Located on one of London’s most prestigious addresses in Knightsbridge is the site for a new 36 suite luxury hotel scheduled to open on 1st December 2012, which will parallel the very best of hotels in the world.
The Wellesley, is located at 11 Knightsbridge, managed by City and Country Hotels and is being developed by Rhimesong at a cost of £36 million, the property was formerly commercial offices.
The hotel will take on both a contemporary and classic style with interiors created by award-winning design experts Fox Linton, combining the building’s 1920s art deco history and glamour with stylish contemporary touches. In addition to its 36 suites, the hotel will incorporate a Cigar Lounge and Terrace, The Crystal Bar, The Oval Restaurant, and the Jazz Room.
Can’t wait to see!

Favorite destinations- Masai Mara Kenya