Shopping: I found Anna Trezbinski! Happy happy!!!!
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Today we are all going riding. Fingers crossed, I have not been on a horse In 20 years.
I probably will move very gingerly tomorrow, but riding was fun. Ol Donyo works with a riding company called Ride Keyna. They have an incredible stable with all the equipment for riding, so if you are a rider, you don’t have to pack extra. They have three levels of riding, so anyone- even beginners can go on a very nice ride. At the end of the ride, we were surprised with a complete breakfast, set up on the Plains- linen table cloths and all!
The food at this camp is amazing. I am told everything is flown in from Nairobi.
We took a charter to the Massai Mara- safarilink. It was a caravan type of plane and flew so low, we could see the country below beautifully.
In the Mara we stayed at Mara Plains , owned by the same company that has Ol Donyo Waus – Great Plains. We knew we would have lovely tents for accomodations and we were not disappointed. My room was right on the river with hippo below. In the night I thought one was in my room the noise was SO LOUD! the usual plan was a game drive in the early morning before breakfast,so we could get a good view of predators on the hunt. Then quick breakfast back at the camp, later lunch under a huge evergreen, afternoon break and then back in The car for afternoon drive. Dinner is at the camp. We were so fortunate to see several prides of lions. Gavin is a big bidwatcher, so we saw hundreds of special birds all during the drives. One evening we got caught in an enormous thunderstorm on the plains. The light show was just breathtaking. We had to have our sundowners in the jeep with the rain and lightening all around us. Quite fun. In the Mara we visited quite a few camps for inspection: Intrepid Mara, Explorer, Rekoro, and Pirini lion camp. Also Sanctuary Olonana, Bateleur, and Kitchwa Tempo.
Lewa Wildlife conservancy is an amazing idea of a small group of people who wanted to preserve and conserve Indigenous animals game in north Kenya. Started by Ian Craig, they have grown to 17 projects protecting wildlife in the Lewa Conservancy. We stayed at Lewa House one of the camps in Lewa Downs. Game sighting is plentiful. Right after landing, on the way to the camp, we saw a pair of white rhino. Specialties of Lewa are reticulated giraffe, Grevey zebra, white rhino, black rhino, hippo, and elephants, which we saw in abundance. We also saw Cheetah, we rode right into the middle of a large group of breeding elephants- yikes! We visited a fabulous 5* camp recommended by Richard Boone of Ol Donyo Waus, called Sirokoi. A really polished, glamourous amazing property. I have attached some pictures. I would happily go back there again.
Lewa house was set on the plains under fever trees. Beautiful setting. During lunch we watched a spectacular display of the area birds, and a mongoose on the prowl – our first kill. Accommodations are more simple, but comfortable. Great for a more moderate budget.
We are back on the charter today- another caravan, flying to the island of Lamu on the Indian ocean. Tonight we are staying at Manda Bay. We will inspect peponi, beach house, and red pepper while we are visiting Lamu.
Lamu
I have always heard that Lamu is a heavenly beach destination. Everything I have heard was confirmed in spades. We arrived in the afternoon and took a boat directly to Manda Bay. Gorgeous coconut palms greeting us on the beach. We dropped our luggage and went immediately to see a special surprise: thousands of Northern Carmine bee- eaters. Thousands and thousands clustered and flying in huge clouds. It was such a spectacular sight. I will never forget it. We then got on a Dhow and had our cocktail cruise. While watching the sundown. Fabulous way to start a beach vacation. Dinner was under the stars, on the beach. The food everywhere we have been has been incredible. This evening we had fresh prawns in our appetizer and red snapper. Lamu is a terrific fishing destination on the Indan Ocean off the coast of Kenya. An easy scheduled charter from many camps. I find that alot of clients like the down time on a beach after Safari. The next morning we went to see several hotels. Garden House, Shella house, Palm House, and the fabulous Beach House. All of these properties are in the city center of Lamu. They have several stories, so lots of steps to go from living room to bedroom, etc. We visited Peponi the delightful family run hotel, Peponi, right on the edge of the city, on the harbor. Across the bay on Manda Island is a spectacular new property called Majlis. Owned by an Italian family, we were hosted by Stefano Moccia, one of the sons. The artwork in the compound was the best I’ve seen in Kenya. Including major American contemporary art. I will happily return and feel very comfortable putting clients there. Rooms were bright, the furnishings and decorative accessories were terrific.
We actually stayed at another former private villa, Red Pepper. Soaring open rattan ceilings, very theatrical. I loved it. Only one room had air-conditioning and we suggested that they put it in all the rooms. The night is very still and weather in Lamu is HOT.
Best camps are for last and we are on our way to Tanzania to Singita Sabora and Singita Sasakwa. As good as it gets!!! Can’t wait to see them again!
A note about the visa situation: get your visa before coming to Tanzania and be sure to have your Yellow fever shots documented on the yellow card. We flew on by charter, if we had flown in commercially, the visa application line and procedure would have taken a very long time because of the larger line of people. Visas cost $100 cash if you buy upon entry.
As I said, we saved the best for last. Sasakwa is like an English Manor sitting up on the hill overlooking the stunning Grumeti plain. Grumeti borders on the Serengeti. It is a vast plain with unlimited skies and sunsets. When the migration is going on, the plains are completely covered with Wildebeest, zebra, elephants and giraffe. And lots of predators sitting there watching the buffet. Sasakwa has the ultimate stable with about 25 horses in superb condition. Rooms are ultra luxe English cottages with fireplaces, antiques- the works! I could live there, happily. Even better is Singita’s tented Camp Sabora, nearby. Right our of Hemingway’s Africa. The Tents are completely finished with English aniques, Persian rugs, chic mobile safari furniture, crystal, silver and china. I have never seen anything like it. Totally glamorous!
Our trip was planned and hosted by a new ground operator, Africa Inscribed. Partners Dylan Harriss and Gavin Ford are a perfect team. Dylan is the planner, organizer and ultimate detail man along with important input from Gavin. Gavin, formally with A&K, has been a top Safari Guide for all of Africa for 18 years. Together they are unstoppable. The biggest difference about this team is that they constantly check camps, and resorts-personally. So when we want a certain area, we can depend their knowledge and expertise. They have truly been there and experienced the properties. Little details like personal handwritten notes announcing our departure time for the next day along with a framed picture of something we saw that day gave our travels a new dimension. The bag tags they supply are metal with woven metal strings so they can’t be torn off. Very well
thought out. No stone left unturned. Africa Inscribed has a very bright future.
We had such a fun, interesting learning experience, but I have to say the very best part of traveling is walking back into my Home! Home is truly where the heart is. I am so blessed to be able to see the world’s amazing places, but there is no place like home, and nothing more important than family. I got off the plane and went straight to Will’s 3rd TBall game. SO adorable!! He was more interested in drawing in the dirt with his toe than catching the ball!
Next trip is back to Kenya in May. Thanks for your interest.
Catherine Whitworth is a Certified Travel Associate with Sterling Brownell Travel. Her destinations specialties are SE Asia, Thailand, and Hong Kong. Her favorite destinations are SE Asia, Africa, France, Italy and India. She has been successfully designing travel experiences for travelers for 18 years.
I had the pleasure of visiting the new Setai New York last February, and it was a stellar experience. Situated on Fifth Avenue between 35th and 36th street, it is an easy walk to theatre, restaurants, and shopping. Capella Hotels manages it so you know it is special. The rooms were so luxurious, I really hated to leave! Floor to ceiling windows, very large space, wall of closets, bathroom with soaking tub, tv hidden in the mirror and double sinks. The view was of the city with the Chrysler building thrown in for good measure. The fully equipped Spa has all the usual offerings plus a Hamman, and a beauty salon. The restaurant- AI Fiori was amazing, and I am sure to be one of the top restaurant choices immediately. I most definitely plan to visit again.
I am assaulted with a riot of color in the the structures, cars, costumes and sari’s. The simplest worker on the road is colorful and elegant. There is a dignity and peacefulness with the people we meet. They are so happy to meet us- their smiles light up their faces.
Toby Sinclair, our illustrious leader, is a bottomless fount of information about Indian History. Toby tidbits: there is a connection with New England and Southern India. Ice was shipped from NE. It was packed in sawdust in the early 1700’s and was a huge industry. The ship took 6 months to get from new England to Madras. It was off loaded to an icehouse in Madras. There were icehouses in Calcutta and Bombay also. The ice came from “kettle ponds” in Massachusetts. Walden’s pond was one of the Kettle Ponds.
A few days ago, I had the pleasure of staying at the venerable Taj Bombay. I am delighted to say the renovation is perfect and it is ready for Primetime!! The colors are fresh and appealing everywhere I went, especially in the public rooms. The service was impeccable as only India can do it. I will place clients there with great confidence that they are in impeccable hands.
Your pictures have been fantastic.Love every one of them. Enjoy for all,xo Martha
Today, on our way to Kandy, we stopped by Heritance Kandalama-a hotel designed by world famous architect Jeffrey Bawa. Brilliant! Reminds me of Howard Roark’s philosophy in Ayn Rand’s The Fountainhead. He built the hotel to blend in to the mountain side. Vines are growing over the rooms, it is built on a lake on the mountainside. A gigantic rock outcropping forms on one side of the main hallway in the lobby.
Next was a visit to the holy Dambulla cave Temple. The largest cave monastery in the country with a history going back to the 1st century BC. Each cave is lined with various sized Buddhas. The Temple has some spectacular wall and ceiling paintings. Only 300 steps straight up. Not for anyone with bad knees.