Taking a short flight further into the Serengeti, we visited Lemala’s Kuria Hills Camp.
No bucket showers here! Gorgeous bathtubs, blow driers, bright lighting, a completely different tented camp experience. The terrain was rocky with giant boulders, reminding me of Zimbabwe. Beautiful location. 
It is a basic mobile tented camp designed to follow the migration. Bucket Showers, and minimum services. But the staff made it a first rate experience. The food – out of a really basic kitchen -was some of the best we had. The staff was friendly, engaged, and welcoming. I will remember this camp fondly, and plan to return.
Limited to Tanzania and Kenya, the Great Migration is a movement of millions of Serengeti’s wildebeest, accompanied by smaller numbers of Zebra, grant’s and Thompson gazelles, Eiland, and Impala. They move in an annual pattern constantly following the rains, seeking fresh grazing. This November, the migration was near the &beyond Serengeti Under Canvas Camp. Because they are mobile, the camp can move with the migration.
Coffee and Amarula- yum!
&beyond Serengeti Under Canvas Camp
We have flown to the Serengeti to see a different terrain, and to follow the migration. Serengeti Under Canvas is a true mobile camp- everything is folded up, packed and moved when needed and one would never know it had been there. No fooprint!
Champagne welcome AndBeyond Crater Lodge
Cozy main Lounge AndBeyond Crater Lodge
North Lodge bathroom seen thru a cut hole
I rarely add picture of interiors of resorts or lodges, but this lodge is so stunning and completely unique, I felt I had to share it. A visit should be on anyone’s bucket list.
Ngorngoro Crater is the largest intact caldera in the world, about 30 kilometers across. An estimated 25000 large mammals are resident in the crater, including a population of approximately 6000 resident wildebeest,zebra, giraffe, and around 70 lions. Visiting it should be a must on everyone’s list. 
Lake Manyara Tree Lion
A new experience to watch a lion leap into the tree
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We had the pleasure of staying at Lake Manyara Tree House, an And Beyond property. Rooms were spacious, luxurious, 5 star in every way. The exceptional staff made us feel so welcome. A complete pleasure and I hope to return.
Known for it’s lions resting in trees to escape the dreaded Tsetse fly, and the glorius flamingos on the lake, Manyara was a delightful surprise. The national park has some of the most lush jungle vegetation I have ever seen. We visited a Massai village, always a warm experience. 
Leopard tucked away nicely
Frigatebird flapping for attention
Passing Scenery – Galapagos
Silver Sea Galapagos
Galapagos Grey Herron
Galapagos Land Iguana
Magnificent Frigatebird trying attract attention
Some insider tips:
1.Prebook some of your treatments. They fill up fast.
2.Be sure to start your experience on the first morning with a program advisor.
They can help you plan what you want to accomplish, be it rehabilitate an injury, physical therapy, develop photography skills, target stress, fat loss, good nutrition plan for life, the list goes on…
3.Transfers are included but most guests don’t realize they can check in as late as midnight, so you can start your day early the next morning. To avoid the nightly rate- stay at the airport and they will pick you up early the next morning.
4.Be sure to request a boxed meal on you return transfer- it is included.
5.At this writing, treatments included for 4N are $670. For 7nights – $1200
6.Low season, when rates are the best, is June thru August.
6.Best room location – near the spa center and main building are casitas in the 100s-especially 101-104, and 163-178
Surpringly sumptuous food is always on the menu. Canyon Ranch includes all meals and a long list of interesting activities. Portions are smaller than a normal restaurant – typically the meat or fish is 3 Ounces. Alcohol is not offered and I did not miss it.
It has been 10 years since I attended Canyon Ranch. I thought I would forget all the procedures, but it was like getting back on a bike. Devoted to health – both mental and physical, Canyon Ranch is a beacon for anyone who wants to improve their life. A place to regroup your body and mind- de stress, lose weight, improve your health, de stress, increase your spirituality, detox, did I mention de stress(?) – the list of how to move toward lifetime wellness is completely covered.
Safari Planner Extraordinaire
A Safari has a thousand moving parts.
Planning a seamless safari requires extraordinary knowledge, passion, experience, ability to anticipate all possible problems, patience, good taste, a sense of humor, a touch of supernatural forecasting, and a lot of love. Dylan and his partner- private label guide extraordinaire, Gavin Ford are constantly on the move checking camps, hotels and resorts. Staff and service are observed with an eagle eye, nothing is missed.
Details like which tent or room is best for a birdwatching client, or where a giraffe might be drinking out of a plunge pool are carefully noted.
Based in South Africa, they cover Kenya, Mozambique, Tanzania, Rwanda, Uganda, South Africa, Madagascar, Zambia, Botswana, Zimbabwe, and Namibia in their search for the best possible choice for a guest. Our guests!
He loves sharing his continent.
When presented with an inquiry, Dylan usually returns with a first quote and proposal within 24-48 hours. He asks for as much information about the client as we can supply. These safaris are completely tailor made. He usually follows up with a conference call between the client and consultant to gage the best options and give the client important information. Such a win, win.
I had a blissful recent experience with his travel planning – all absolutely amazing.
As a guest or mostly as a travel consultant that wants the very best, he is the greatest.
He makes us, Brownell consultants look like stars.
Thank you Dylan.
View from the deck of &Beyond Phinda Vlei Lodge
Phinda Vlei cottage
&Beyond Phinda’s private game reserve measures 56,800 acres. It has 7 different habitats, and 6 vastly different lodges: Vlei, Forest, and Homestead on the upper part of the property and Zuka, Rock and Mountain in the more mountainous, western part of the reserve Phinda is know for it’s abundant wildlife- especially their pride of Lion and coalition of Cheetah.
What I recognized immediately was the heartfelt care of the staff. Katherine, Grateful, Happiness, Madu, Baby Jake, Mr M, France, and Essence embody what makes African service unforgettable. They mean it from their heart.
Phinda Lion
It is discovering a place in your heart you’ve never been before.
Anon.
Brand new pool at the Four Seasons Joberg
Fabulous new rooftop bar.
Four Seasons fans will not be disappointed with the newly renovated Four Seasons Johannesburg, formerly the Orient Express Westcliff. 20-30 minutes from OR Tambo international airport, the Four Seasons displayed it’s usual outstanding service. I can attest to that personally. After coming off safari with “safari” hair, I emailed to see if I could get a simple wash and blow dry. The Spa manager, Julanda Marais responded by arranging for a beautician to come to my room! That was with one day’s notice!
Offering a spectacular new spa, five outstanding new restaurants, bars and lounges – the View restaurant opening with 1 Michelin star- the Four Seasons has a fun and lively buzz.
Usual Four Seasons Fab Flowers
Top notch guide Warren and our tracker, Jackson
A few of the details that make Tswalu Kalahari so special are the shuttle flights: private jets like the Pilatus PC-12, the lounge for your transfer -Fireblade – is in a class all it’s own with day rooms a massage therapist, and private chef on call. Offering a small number of cottages on property, the resort suits both families and honeymooners. Most especially the best offering is the private vehicle , guide and tracker for each set of guests. If you booked singly or came with 4 friends, you get you own land rover, guide and tracker. That is the height of luxury on safari! They dedicate up to 9 vehicles, guides and trackers for their guests. The reserve is so large, you never seem to see more than one other vehicle when one is out on a game drive. Our guide, Warren, knew that reserve like the back of his hand. He even found a pack of wild dogs in a impossible to find location!! Wild dogs!! What a thrill!!! My first sighting in all my years of safari tracking.
Guides and trackers focus on what a guest wants to see, ie birds or predators- or both!! You see it all!!!
ultimate luxury – private vehicle, guide and tracker
Part of the villa – Motse Lodge , Tswalu
Lodge image courtesy of Tswalu Kalahari
My first safari experience this trip was to Tswalu Kalahari. The Kalahari is a desert, so I was amazed at the lush greeness of the preserve. The property encompasses 250,000 acres, yes I said 250,000 acres. The largest property I have ever seen, and vistas are stunning. Chosen as a National Geographic Unique safari lodge, Tswalu’s capacity is 30 people. Prime game viewing is black mane lion, meerkats, wild dog, giraffe, sable, oryx, giraffe. Owned by the Oppenheimer family, Tsawlu is dedicated to conservation. They use their own private planes so the experience starts with a bang. They offer the usual car and driver and also horseback. Formerly a Relais & Chateau the food is a cut above.
Unspoiled luxury!!
My transfer to Tswalu- awesome
The iconic Mount Nelson Hotel- Cape Town
Cape Town
Table Mountain -Cape Town South Africa
Towering sand dunes and a straight up ascent. A 5K hike with stunning panoramic vistas that seemed to go forever. The best hike of all. Ending with a slide down a 200 foot dune
A gentle start that took a sharp turn upwards.
On the cliff edge – looking straight down into the Luna Valkey
Cactus fields and a flowing river in the desert- novel experience.
The hike is climbing over the boulders beside the river, down a canyon and climbing out to a marvelous panoramic view of the mountain range.
We started walking through a field of large stones, then continued trekking on the edge of a 200 foot cliff- scared the life out of me! Then walked down a giant sand dune, crossed a very wide salt flat and walked through the Kari Ravine. The Kari Ravine us a small canyon formed by water erosion and surrounded by enormous salt walls. We walked through a dry river bed covered with salt. There were two rock wall drops that required rock wall climbing skills. I made it, but it was terrifying.
The edge is on the right side of the image.
Explorer Atacama resort is a base for exploring some of the most extraordinary landscapes in the world. Enormous mountains and volcanos tower over geysers, multicolored lagoons, and salt flats in the midst of an ancient civilation. Think Canyon Ranch with all outdoor activities – stunning ever changing vistas. Hikes are for beginners to mountain climbing experts. Atacama is loaded with volcanos, canyons, salt flats, dry rivers, waterfalls wet and dry, enormous sand dunes, geysers, hot springs, and ancient petroglyphs. It reminds me a lot of Grand Canyon, and Brice Canyon to name a few. Everywhere one looks, the vistas are spectacular.
Day 1 hike: started with a walk straight up a dry waterfall- gulp! When we reached the top, the view of the volcanos were amazing. We then walked through a gorgeous salt wall canyon. Pictures below:
At Explorer we are inspired to travel for the pleasure of the journey itself, and by the richness of the experiences it brings. They call their philosophy the Art of travel, and it is based on three pillars: remote areas, in depth explorations and luxury of the essentials.
Explorer Atacama offers 30 Hiking explorations- half and full day, 12biking explorations – half and full day and 15 horseback riding excursions.
Volcanos seen from the explorer lobby.
High contemporary decor- lots of whites. Explorer’s service is impeccable. Equate Explorer with activity: hiking, biking, and the only resort with horseback riding. Easy to extreme!
We were driven to the Salt Flats at sunset and were introduced to the northern version of Chilean flamingos. Really incredible! They get their pink from organism that they eat in the water.
The usual tip top service, Ritz Carlton Santiago has lived up to it’s considerable reputation. Rooms are impeccable, beds are like sleeping on a cloud.
Spectacular flowers everywhere is just one small detail in the scheme of things at the formidable Peninsula Shanghai. Situated on the Bund, this hotel aims to please. They offer an airport pickup in their fabulous Rolls Royce, and the service just gets better from there. Large, spacious, comfortable rooms face the river and the colorful Pudong area across the street. The bathroom has a button the dims the lights slowly as soft music comes up and water fills the bathtub. Just incredible. Returning to the Peninsula Shanghai is a must.
Images courtesy of Rosewood Beijing
I had the privilege of serving on the Virtuoso Preview Board of Advisors for Rosewood Beijing, so I was well briefed with the passion of the staff. They left no stone unturned in their focus on making all guests feel welcome. When I visited Beijing and saw the hotel in actuality, I was blown away. I met the GM Marc Brugger, and Head of Sales David Campbell. William Liu, Beijing head of Sales and Lori Zhang kindly showed me around. An exciting project, I caught the passion of the staff and loved the decor. Completely pleasant, the rooms evoke a wonderful sense of place and relaxation. Can’t wait to get back and sample the Peking Duck specialty in one of the restaurants, A Country Kitchen. You can read about the hotel in this issue of Virtuoso Life.
The most amazing, extensive breakfast I have ever experienced was at the St Regis Beijing. Wow!
Feast for your eyes wherever you turn.
Devil’s in the details.
Also great for a wedding celebration!!
Corner Dining
Dispatches from the Road 
