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We paid a visit to a Massai tribal village. They greeted us with a traditional welcome dance which incorporates jumping as high as one can. The men are the warriors and their job is to protect the village and cattle from predators. The women do everything else including BUILDING their houses. The Massai tribe is Christian and the entire village of 60 formed a circle with us and started our visit with a prayer. Very moving. we then proceeded to visit a home and meet the children. The proper greeting when you meet a child is to but your hand on their head. They walk up to you with their head bowed. The grand finale of our visit was an outdoor market., under a giant Acacia tree. The ladies do all the crafts themselves-beautiful beaded work. Each lady laid out a cloth and put her items on it. We walked around a big circle and picked what we wanted, then we go to the shade and negotiate. Needles to say we got some great deals. I have presents for my daughters and friends. Of course I bought a red necklace for one of of my best friends, Jane Kimbrell. I buy her a red necklace every place I go. She is getting quite a collection.
Let me backup and say that Vince and Barbara Dooley caught up with the group in Nairobi, so we are a happy group of 7.
Yesterday we went on a morning game drive which ended in delightful bush breakfast. Everything from omelets to fresh fruit on long tables draped with Massai Warrior plaid tablecloths and camping chairs. Lunch was buffet- amazing what they can do in a remote camp kitchen. This camp has a gorgeous organic garden, so all the vegetables and salads can be eaten with no worries. A quick swim, then we went for a LONG walk through a volcanic rock field. Not much fun but great exercise. We ended with a climb up a 1500 foot hill and a surprise bar for “sundowners”, watching the sunset on the right and a pink Killimanjaro on the left. We really earned our gin and tonics. Woody turned into Chas Woods. No, he did not get over served!
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First day of safari- Amboseli
We had an amazing first game drive when we landed at Amboseli Park. We saw ostrich, wart hog, hippopotamus, giraffe, two lioness, water buffalo, cranes, egrets, eagles, horned bills, and hundreds of elephants in herds. Wake up call this morning was 430A – Yikes! We flew by charter from Nairobi and are staying at Tortilis Camp. The view on the Verandah is of MT. Killimanjaro, lunch was homemade pasta, chicken and rice, baked eggplant, organic salads and dessert was fresh fruit and Apple Crumble. Barbara, Susanne and I are writing on our iPads. Coach Dooley is taking a walk. Nelson is entertaining us with stories. What better entertainment can you ask for!
Kenya Pre Departure Information
Enclosed is a predeparture form that explains all the limits and requirements for travel on Safari to Kenya. We also have to be concious of shots needed. I recommended they all check in with the CDC requirements. One new shot is Yellow fever and it needs to be documented on a yellow card. One had to have it for Tanzania, but not really for Kenya. I am told Kenya Customs now requires it. Another very important part of Safari is your luggage. Weight can be no heavier than 32 pounds. Bag size should be 12X24/10. It should be a soft duffle type bag because they are going into a very small cargo department. I am checking with ATT to check on international plans for ipads, iphones, and Blackberry’s. Best I can tell, you need to add an international plan to BOTH your iphone and ipad and cut off cellular data on each device. That will allow internet access in WiFi zones only, but it won’t be hundreds of dollars in fees when you return. I have also learned one needs to cut off email push, so your iphone and ipad does not download when you don’t want it. More on the preparations.
I am getting ready for a Safari to East Africa and I thought it might be helpful to write about what to pack. What I am suggesting is equally good for Kenya, Tanzania, Zambia, South Africa, Botswana, and Zimbabwe. It is important to take into account the other activities one might choose do do other than game drives such as fishing, horseback riding- Singita Sasakwa, and Ol Donyo Waus among others have that- canoeing, hiking, birdwatching, ATV riding , etc. You might need clothing or equipment dedicated to those activities.
The key is to PACK LIGHTLY! Most charter flights won’t carry over 20KG. Which is 44.9 pounds. I found a canvas duffle with rollers from LL Bean. I can carry it on from the US to Nairobi. Then I packed a Longchamps fold up canvas bag to hold camera equipment when I have to check the duffle. Never check ANYTHING valuable, especially camera equipment or medications. In case your luggage gets lost.
For ladies:
4 short sleeved cotton T shirts
3 easy dry long sleeved khaki shirts
3 pairs long khaki pants- mine have zippers to make into shorts
2 pairs of long pants for night
2 pairs long shorts
One dress for night dining
One skirt for night
A really GOOD pair of binoculars
A good wide brimmed hat with a tie so it won’t blow off.
2 pair of sunglasses
Malarone medication for Mosquitos
A really good mossie spray with DEET
a bathing suit
A sarong for both BS and night
2 bright colored pashminas. I use them instead of the plane blankets.
2 cashmere sweaters for night or cold mornings
1 pair of Silver Tory Burch slippers for night
1 pair of sneakers
1 folding fan
All Chargers for phones and cameras
Universal adapter
Ziploc bags for makeup and hair products
1 all weather jacket
2 cameras one with long lense attachment, one video. Extra cards.
A journal
A fold up bag to use when your carryon has to be checked.
Undergarments
1 nightgown
Medjet medical pack
Visa credit card, iPad, and cash.
Just landed in Kenya. My guides, Gavin Ford one of the top guides in all of Africa and Africa Inscribed chief Dylan Harriss were at the airport to Meet and Greet. So nice to see their smiling faces behind a huge group of greeters They sent an airport employee, Lanette, to the plane. When I deplaned, she was front and center to help with carryon luggage and MOST IMPORTANTLY to get me through the Visa registration. I was in a special line! No problems and NO LINE. You’ve gotta love it! We were off to the fabled Norfolk Hotel, I am checked in and hitting the sack. I brought special luggage from a family in Atlanta for a school in the Massai Mara. I will take that to A&K Kenya tomorrow, check out shops, and find out what the BEST lunch place is in Nairobi.
I stayed last night at the historic Norfolk hotel. It is over 100 years old, but recently renovated by Fairmont hotels. The public spaces remain the same and I really felt like I was in Africa. I love the Veranda and the gardens.
I paid a visit to A&K Kenya to meet all the folks that help me make wonderful Safari experiences. Last year a family from Atlanta came over on Safari and they met the children of the Jacob Loigero school. They were so impressed with the school, they sent with me two HUGE bags of school supplies- one was full of soccer balls. I took them with me today to A&K and they were delighted to get the supplies to the school in the Massai Mara. Such a wonderful gesture from my family and so great of A&K to help.
Shopping nairobi.
My number one mission was to find the atelier of Anna trezbinski. Anna is a fashion designer from Nairobi who does extremely successful trunk shows in the US.. Among her designs are pashminsas that have feathers attached to the ends. They are absolutely stunning, and all the best camps in Africa have her designs I their shops. She used local villagers and does the most Incredible beaded jewelry, clothing with beading, bags, belts etc,etc. After some phone calls, my most resourceful driver, Alex, found her. And it was her birthday! I would love to talk her into visiting Atlanta, and doing a show there with my friend Betty Jo. I felt like I was in AliBabas cave!
I also found some local crafts shops and a wonderful curio shop called African heritage. I am bringing a group in May so I wanted to get some places lined up for them.
Another delightful place I visited in Nairobi was The giraffe center where I was able to feed the giraffes and they gave me A big kiss. Seeing those gentle animals so closely was such a thrill. I highly recommend it
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Catherine Whitworth CTA
Day 2, we got up early and flew a charter to the chulyu hills. Our destination camp is the fabulous Ol Donyo Waus. Charters are so much fun,because you can really see the landscape. As we were flying into the grass land g strip, I saw elephants, giraffe, zebra, impala, grant and thompson antelope. My biggest surprise wS that the landscape was so green! The area had just had rains and I have never seen such green. The trees and grasslands were amazing. I am sitting by the pool looking at elephants with a giraffe in the background, drinking from the pond below. Welcome to Africa!
Ol Donyo Waus is one of the five star camps I have been wanting to see, and it met all my expectations. The accommodations are top notch. Beautifully designed, the attention to detail is amazing. They have 10 villas- one is a two bedroom for families. Almost all have plunge pools, all have stunning views of Mt. Killimanjaro when he wants to show himself.
Activities include horseback riding, mountain bike riding, hiking, they offer a trek with with the resident bloodhounds( tracking pouchers)and of course games drives morning and evening. After our afternoon game drive, we had “Sundowners” and watched the sunset on the plains.
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Today we are all going riding. Fingers crossed, I have not been on a horse In 20 years.
I probably will move very gingerly tomorrow, but riding was fun. Ol Donyo works with a riding company called Ride Keyna. They have an incredible stable with all the equipment for riding, so if you are a rider, you don’t have to pack extra. They have three levels of riding, so anyone- even beginners can go on a very nice ride. At the end of the ride, we were surprised with a complete breakfast, set up on the Plains- linen table cloths and all!
The food at this camp is amazing. I am told everything is flown in from Nairobi.
We took a charter to the Massai Mara- safarilink. It was a caravan type of plane and flew so low, we could see the country below beautifully.
In the Mara we stayed at Mara Plains , owned by the same company that has Ol Donyo Waus – Great Plains. We knew we would have lovely tents for accomodations and we were not disappointed. My room was right on the river with hippo below. In the night I thought one was in my room the noise was SO LOUD! the usual plan was a game drive in the early morning before breakfast,so we could get a good view of predators on the hunt. Then quick breakfast back at the camp, later lunch under a huge evergreen, afternoon break and then back in The car for afternoon drive. Dinner is at the camp. We were so fortunate to see several prides of lions. Gavin is a big bidwatcher, so we saw hundreds of special birds all during the drives. One evening we got caught in an enormous thunderstorm on the plains. The light show was just breathtaking. We had to have our sundowners in the jeep with the rain and lightening all around us. Quite fun. In the Mara we visited quite a few camps for inspection: Intrepid Mara, Explorer, Rekoro, and Pirini lion camp. Also Sanctuary Olonana, Bateleur, and Kitchwa Tempo.
you travel with a US PASSPORT which is valid 6 months after your return.
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Dispatches from the Road 