Baby Sea Lion -Darwin Bay, Galapagos
Crab at Darwin Bay
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Category Archives: Virtuoso
Galapagos: Genovesa Island
Red Footed Booby
Genovesa island -our first stop on the Galapagos itinerary, is a protected haven for birds. One sees hundreds if not thousands of birds flying all over the volcanic island. Many are nesting and completely unafraid of humans. There are no predators of any sort, so they are completely habituated.
Galapagos: One of a Kind Archipelago
Red Footed Booby
Nasca Booby- Genovese Island, Galapagos
Galapagos is must experience for any Intrepid Traveler!
I had the privilege of sailing with Silver Sea Galapagos, a new expedition ship sailing the Galápagos Islands. We traveled to a different island- sometimes two, each day. Each island has it’s own marvels. Our first Island to explore was Genovese in the northern part of the group. It is aptly named bird island.
Quito Ecuador, a Pleasant Surprise
St Francis Cathedral and Convent courtyard
Cotopaxi Volcano starting to erupt.
Surrounded by 7 active volcanoes, Quito was declared Unesco’s first World heritage city in 1959. With a beautiful colonial architectural center, Quito was built in the 16th century over ancient Inca ruins. Surrounding the city are spectacular mountains filled with a multitude of birds, bears, and tropical flora. Lots to do and see in Quito! Especially if you are tying it to a visit to the Galapagos and want to add some days in Ecuador.
Insider Tips: Canyon Ranch
Some insider tips:
1.Prebook some of your treatments. They fill up fast.
2.Be sure to start your experience on the first morning with a program advisor.
They can help you plan what you want to accomplish, be it rehabilitate an injury, physical therapy, develop photography skills, target stress, fat loss, good nutrition plan for life, the list goes on…
3.Transfers are included but most guests don’t realize they can check in as late as midnight, so you can start your day early the next morning. To avoid the nightly rate- stay at the airport and they will pick you up early the next morning.
4.Be sure to request a boxed meal on you return transfer- it is included.
5.At this writing, treatments included for 4N are $670. For 7nights – $1200
6.Low season, when rates are the best, is June thru August.
6.Best room location – near the spa center and main building are casitas in the 100s-especially 101-104, and 163-178
Canyon Ranch – health and wellness focus
Surpringly sumptuous food is always on the menu. Canyon Ranch includes all meals and a long list of interesting activities. Portions are smaller than a normal restaurant – typically the meat or fish is 3 Ounces. Alcohol is not offered and I did not miss it.
&Beyond Phinda – South African Private Game Reserve
View from the deck of &Beyond Phinda Vlei Lodge
Phinda Vlei cottage
&Beyond Phinda’s private game reserve measures 56,800 acres. It has 7 different habitats, and 6 vastly different lodges: Vlei, Forest, and Homestead on the upper part of the property and Zuka, Rock and Mountain in the more mountainous, western part of the reserve Phinda is know for it’s abundant wildlife- especially their pride of Lion and coalition of Cheetah.
What I recognized immediately was the heartfelt care of the staff. Katherine, Grateful, Happiness, Madu, Baby Jake, Mr M, France, and Essence embody what makes African service unforgettable. They mean it from their heart.
Phinda Lion
Travel is more than a destination in mind…
It is discovering a place in your heart you’ve never been before.
Anon.
Four Seasons Westcliff – Johannesburg South Africa
Brand new pool at the Four Seasons Joberg
Fabulous new rooftop bar.
Four Seasons fans will not be disappointed with the newly renovated Four Seasons Johannesburg, formerly the Orient Express Westcliff. 20-30 minutes from OR Tambo international airport, the Four Seasons displayed it’s usual outstanding service. I can attest to that personally. After coming off safari with “safari” hair, I emailed to see if I could get a simple wash and blow dry. The Spa manager, Julanda Marais responded by arranging for a beautician to come to my room! That was with one day’s notice!
Offering a spectacular new spa, five outstanding new restaurants, bars and lounges – the View restaurant opening with 1 Michelin star- the Four Seasons has a fun and lively buzz.
Usual Four Seasons Fab Flowers
Tswalu Kalahari -South Africa
Top notch guide Warren and our tracker, Jackson
A few of the details that make Tswalu Kalahari so special are the shuttle flights: private jets like the Pilatus PC-12, the lounge for your transfer -Fireblade – is in a class all it’s own with day rooms a massage therapist, and private chef on call. Offering a small number of cottages on property, the resort suits both families and honeymooners. Most especially the best offering is the private vehicle , guide and tracker for each set of guests. If you booked singly or came with 4 friends, you get you own land rover, guide and tracker. That is the height of luxury on safari! They dedicate up to 9 vehicles, guides and trackers for their guests. The reserve is so large, you never seem to see more than one other vehicle when one is out on a game drive. Our guide, Warren, knew that reserve like the back of his hand. He even found a pack of wild dogs in a impossible to find location!! Wild dogs!! What a thrill!!! My first sighting in all my years of safari tracking.
Guides and trackers focus on what a guest wants to see, ie birds or predators- or both!! You see it all!!!
ultimate luxury – private vehicle, guide and tracker
Tswalu Kalahari – Motse Lodge
Part of the villa – Motse Lodge , Tswalu
Tswalu Kalahari – Malaria Free Zone
Lodge image courtesy of Tswalu Kalahari
My first safari experience this trip was to Tswalu Kalahari. The Kalahari is a desert, so I was amazed at the lush greeness of the preserve. The property encompasses 250,000 acres, yes I said 250,000 acres. The largest property I have ever seen, and vistas are stunning. Chosen as a National Geographic Unique safari lodge, Tswalu’s capacity is 30 people. Prime game viewing is black mane lion, meerkats, wild dog, giraffe, sable, oryx, giraffe. Owned by the Oppenheimer family, Tsawlu is dedicated to conservation. They use their own private planes so the experience starts with a bang. They offer the usual car and driver and also horseback. Formerly a Relais & Chateau the food is a cut above.
Unspoiled luxury!!
My transfer to Tswalu- awesome
The iconic Mount Nelson Hotel- Cape Town
I stayed in the Mount Nelson and the Cape Grace, both fabulous properties where personal service is top notch.
ILTM Africa – a huge success!
Cape Town
Table Mountain -Cape Town South Africa
I visited Cape Town to attend the International Luxury Travel Market. Meeting with suppliers from the best hotels, safari camps, African resorts, tour companies, ground operators, flight companies from all over Africa gave me the opportunity to establish continued connections and find out about new exciting properties. Some of the highlights for me were Mount Rochelle, recently opened by Richard Branson near Franschoek (the wine lands), Grand Dedale- another beautiful bed & breakfast in the wine lands, Residence in Zanzibar, African Elite properties ( privately owned villas that are a cut above), Residence on the Rocks in the Seycelles. The most exciting new camp is Angama Mara, a new safari lodge being built on the edge of Africa’s Rift Valley and overlooking Kenya’s Maasai Mara. Set to open in a few months, this camp will be a must experience! Can’t wait to go!!
Another exciting opening is Royal Portfolio’s fabulous new hotel in Cape Town : the Silo. A completely new build. The Silo hotel will occupy an old Silo on the waterfront. The lower floors will house the new African Contemporary Art museum. The mock ups of the rooms and public areas are spectacular. All glass, the views will be unforgettable.
Day 4 Hike Atacama Luna Valley – best one!
Towering sand dunes and a straight up ascent. A 5K hike with stunning panoramic vistas that seemed to go forever. The best hike of all. Ending with a slide down a 200 foot dune
A gentle start that took a sharp turn upwards.
On the cliff edge – looking straight down into the Luna Valkey
Day 3 – Afternoon hike – Punta del Inca
Cactus fields and a flowing river in the desert- novel experience.
The hike is climbing over the boulders beside the river, down a canyon and climbing out to a marvelous panoramic view of the mountain range.
Day 3 Morning Hike -Kari
We started walking through a field of large stones, then continued trekking on the edge of a 200 foot cliff- scared the life out of me! Then walked down a giant sand dune, crossed a very wide salt flat and walked through the Kari Ravine. The Kari Ravine us a small canyon formed by water erosion and surrounded by enormous salt walls. We walked through a dry river bed covered with salt. There were two rock wall drops that required rock wall climbing skills. I made it, but it was terrifying.
The edge is on the right side of the image.
Explorer Excursions
Explorer Atacama resort is a base for exploring some of the most extraordinary landscapes in the world. Enormous mountains and volcanos tower over geysers, multicolored lagoons, and salt flats in the midst of an ancient civilation. Think Canyon Ranch with all outdoor activities – stunning ever changing vistas. Hikes are for beginners to mountain climbing experts. Atacama is loaded with volcanos, canyons, salt flats, dry rivers, waterfalls wet and dry, enormous sand dunes, geysers, hot springs, and ancient petroglyphs. It reminds me a lot of Grand Canyon, and Brice Canyon to name a few. Everywhere one looks, the vistas are spectacular.
Day 1 hike: started with a walk straight up a dry waterfall- gulp! When we reached the top, the view of the volcanos were amazing. We then walked through a gorgeous salt wall canyon. Pictures below:
Explorer Atacama – philosophy
At Explorer we are inspired to travel for the pleasure of the journey itself, and by the richness of the experiences it brings. They call their philosophy the Art of travel, and it is based on three pillars: remote areas, in depth explorations and luxury of the essentials.
Explorer Atacama offers 30 Hiking explorations- half and full day, 12biking explorations – half and full day and 15 horseback riding excursions.
Explorer – Atacama Desert, Chile
Volcanos seen from the explorer lobby.
High contemporary decor- lots of whites. Explorer’s service is impeccable. Equate Explorer with activity: hiking, biking, and the only resort with horseback riding. Easy to extreme!
Excursion to the Atacama Salt Flats and Flamingos!
We were driven to the Salt Flats at sunset and were introduced to the northern version of Chilean flamingos. Really incredible! They get their pink from organism that they eat in the water.
Heading off to the Atacama Desert
We flew into Calama, Chile then made an hour and 15 minute drive to Explorer Atacama. Colors are so muted and serene. Blues, beiges and whites. Easy drive. Another world completely.
Rooftop Pool Ritz Carlton Santiago
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Ritz Carlton Santiago – traditional luxury
The usual tip top service, Ritz Carlton Santiago has lived up to it’s considerable reputation. Rooms are impeccable, beds are like sleeping on a cloud.
Off to Chile -flying the Divine Dreamliner on LAN
Probably the most comfortable sleep on a plane in a long while. LAN offers a comforter inside a sheet- sort of like a sleeping bag. So you lie on the comforter under the sheet. The lighting is unusual prevelant pinks and blues and i am told the humidity is pumped up so one sleeps more comfortably. I did not wake up till 20 minutes before we landed in Santiago. We hardly felt the take off and landing. Huge plane! 
We are guests of LAN Airlines, Ritz Carlton, A&K Chile and Explora Atacama. It is such a privilege to learn about new travel options.
Finest hotel in China – Peninsula Shanghai
Spectacular flowers everywhere is just one small detail in the scheme of things at the formidable Peninsula Shanghai. Situated on the Bund, this hotel aims to please. They offer an airport pickup in their fabulous Rolls Royce, and the service just gets better from there. Large, spacious, comfortable rooms face the river and the colorful Pudong area across the street. The bathroom has a button the dims the lights slowly as soft music comes up and water fills the bathtub. Just incredible. Returning to the Peninsula Shanghai is a must.
Premier Room – Rosewood Beijing
Images courtesy of Rosewood Beijing
I had the privilege of serving on the Virtuoso Preview Board of Advisors for Rosewood Beijing, so I was well briefed with the passion of the staff. They left no stone unturned in their focus on making all guests feel welcome. When I visited Beijing and saw the hotel in actuality, I was blown away. I met the GM Marc Brugger, and Head of Sales David Campbell. William Liu, Beijing head of Sales and Lori Zhang kindly showed me around. An exciting project, I caught the passion of the staff and loved the decor. Completely pleasant, the rooms evoke a wonderful sense of place and relaxation. Can’t wait to get back and sample the Peking Duck specialty in one of the restaurants, A Country Kitchen. You can read about the hotel in this issue of Virtuoso Life.
Now Open: The Fabulous Rosewood Beijing
Sleek, glamorous, exciting are first three words that jump to mind after my visit to the brand new Rosewood Beijing.
The exterior is all hard edged and glossy, while the interior is soft and relaxed.
It incorporates a residential feel.
A Virtuoso property, it has jaw dropping views of Beijing out the floor to ceiling windows.
Best Breakfast -St Regis Beijing
The most amazing, extensive breakfast I have ever experienced was at the St Regis Beijing. Wow!
St. Regis Beijing
Host to kings, princes, presidents and CEO’s, the St Regis Beijing lives up to it’s reputation. In a perfect central location on Embassy Row, we could walk to the Silk Market and one of the most luxurious underground malls I have ever seen. Every designer you could possibly think of, was represented. Beijing is the cultural capital of China, and getting to the sites and museums was an easy jump- mostly by car. The city is enormous.
Drama in the Entry – Amanoi, Vietnam
Feast for your eyes wherever you turn.
Small details, beautifully placed- Amanoi, Vietnam
Devil’s in the details.
Yoga Pavillion Amanoi – Vietnam
Also great for a wedding celebration!!
Plunge Pool at Villa 2 Amanoi -Vietnam
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Corner Dining Amanoi – Vinh Hy Bay, Vietnam
Corner Dining
Villa 2 Amanoi- Vinh Hy Bay, Vietnam
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Aman heaven again- Amanoi Vinh Hy, Vietnam
Aman heaven again. And you will be too!
Aman is a Sanskrit-derived word for peace and Noi means “place”
This property personifies that ethic.
With the launch of Amanoi, Amanresorts adds Vietnam to its Southeast Asian circuit, with Amanpuri in Thailand, Amantaka in Laos and Amansara in Cambodia already on everyone’s must travel list
Impossible to describe the serenity, sense of place, and spectacular decor.
A fabulous spot to wind down after a tour of SE Asia, Amanoi is perfect for a honeymoon and divine for a destination wedding.
The designer, Jean-Michel Gathy also did the spectacular Amanyara in Turks &Caicos
Not a “palm tree” resort. Amanoi is set on the coast in beautiful Vinh Hy Bay in the middle of the Nui Chua National park. Vegetation is subtropical, and incredible rock formations are everywhere. There is a wonderful beach with unusual shells and a darling fishing village on the other side of Vinh Hy bay. Landing in Na Trang, the drive is about an hour and 15minutes on an amazing coastal drive. The good news is that the car has WIFI so you can catch up on emails or track your progress on google maps.
Food was fabulous. Beef was flown in from Australia, all vegetables and fruits are local and organic, seafood was right out of the local waters. Couldn’t be more fresh.
I want to move into our villa- it is that comfortable. The beyond fab Spa has the only Pilates equipment and set up in Vietnam. They also boast hydrotherapy equipment.
Sea View Villa – Nam Hai Hoi An, Vietnam
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Our view from the Nam Hai – Hoi An Vietnam
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Main Lodge- Nam Hai, Hoi An Vietnam
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Nam Hai- Hoi An Vietnam
Some of the best food we encountered was in Vietnam. Fresh and vibrant. one of the best restaurants was at the Nam Hai. Near Danang, an elegant, glamorous addition to the middle coast of Vietnam. Gorgeous pool and public areas! Service was wonderful.
Beware if you are not happy with lots of steps. The elegant villa is set as rectangle facing the sea- with a step down from the entry area, a step down beside the bed then another step to the living room. steps are lit but you want to be cautious.
Innovative and beautiful. It is the place to be in Hoi An Vietnam.
Cool Hotel in Hong Kong- Upper House
Upper House – COOL hotel in Hong Kong Central.
There is a special type of client looking for cool new slick spaces – You know who you are.
Upper House is going to fill the bill in Hong Kong. Minimal, contemporary, intime and totally cool.
Three room types: Peak view 70 CM/Harbor view 70CM and harbor or peak view suite 80CM
A great addition to the services of Upper House is that they allow early arrivals. So if your flight arrives in the morning, they will move you right into your room. They check you in there. No lines -No waiting. 
Upper House’s restaurant is Café Gray Deluxe, a 21st century ‘grand café’, located on the 49th floor overlooking Victoria Harbor, marks the return to Hong Kong of Chef Gray Kunz and his cuisine – a unique style of European classics and signature dishes from a lifetime leading the very finest kitchens in Europe, Asia and America.
Hotel facts:
The hotel’s 117 rooms (including 21 suites and 2 penthouses) start at 730sq ft – the largest in Hong Kong. They feature wonderfully spacious bathrooms and dressing areas, and offer either scenic harbor or island views. Calming and contemporary, the rooms are designed to provide a sense of relaxation, warmth and understated luxury. Room features Luxury down bedding Complimentary in-room bar Dual temperature wine fridge Complimentary espresso machine and selection of teas and infusions LCD TV with 2.1 surround sound with simple connectivity for PC, camcorder and MP3 Interactive hotel information, music and games via in room iTouch Complimentary wired and wireless high speed internet access Spacious bathrooms with TV, dressing area, walk-in rain shower and limestone clad bath
Chi Lin Gardens -Hong Kong
We are looking for new sites in Hong Kong and my friend Devin suggested we see Chi Lin Nunnery and Gardens. Just opened a year ago, the gardens are a beautiful depiction of a Tang Dynasty garden and has amazing replicas of Tang Dynasty structures, built in teak wood. A beautiful oasis smack in the middle of Kowloon. If you are in Hong Kong, you should add it to your list.
Ode to Devin Gwie
A Tour Guide professional for over 20 years. Devin has personal connections in every city and country in SE Asia. He knows every top restaurant, hotel, hidden shops you might want to know about, the best tailors, jewelry makers, pearl sources, who is reputable, etc,etc,etc. He can untangle any red tape, get you Into to places you can’t, handle high maintenance clients from famous entertainers, to the wife of presidents, to royalty -in a word the man to know in SE Asia. And he is exceptional with groups. The ultimate professional, with a wonderful sense of humor – my favorite guide, Devin Gwie.
Spectacular FS Club Lounge – Hong Kong
Situated on the top floor of FS Hong Kong, the Club lounge serves breakfast privately in the morning and drinks and snacks/drinks all day. Complimentary to all suites.
Dispatches from the Road 