Cardinal Ortega
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Sunday in Cuba is time for Mass and we went to the oldest Cathedral in Havana. We were delighted and privileged to participate in High Mass with his holiness, the Cardinal of Cuba,Jaime Ortega, no less. No idea how we lucked out but it was divine. The choral music was heavenly, no pun intended. We did not understand the sermon, but it was like every other Mass ceremony, so we were not lost. At the end of the Mass I shook hands with the Cardinal and he asked me where I was from, I told him we were from the US and he just beamed. Really nice guy.
Probably the highlight of my trip to Cuba was experiencing the music of the Buena Vista Social Club. They are a group of older musicians from Havana that were forgotten during the Castro Regime and brought back to prominence by an American guitarist, Ry Cooder. He came to Cuba and recorded the group of musicians in about 14 days. They have performed at Carnegie Hall, and all over the world, reviving traditional Cuban music. Their album was recorded in 1997 and received a Grammy Award. BVSC was a group of prominent musicians in the 40’s and 50’s that formed a Club in Havana. The room was throbbing, everyone was dancing the salsa. You could not possibly stay seated. The music was fabulous.
We started the day with a visit to a rum factory. I really did not know that there is a high quality rum that retails for $1700 a bottle USD. A shot of rum is a great way to start the morning! We made the pilgrimage to Ernest Hemingway’s home. I knew he was highly regarded, but Cubans adore him! The house was interesting. Full of bullfight memorabilia, hunting trophies, wonderful artwork, and loaded with books everywhere. It looked like a quite comfortable house. He had marked his weight in his bathroom on the wall, everyday.
After lunch at another rooftop restaurant, we visited the atelier of the Picasso of the Caribbean, Jose Fuster. Wow! Pictures follow!
Our Salsa lessons
We were all taken to a dance studio and given Salsa lessons by a wonderful teacher, Pablo. What a ball, and we really learned to do some complicated steps! We are having dinner with the Buena Vista Social club tomorrow night and we can all practice.
Small private family run restaurants were always popular in Cuba, but with the departure of the USSR in the 90’s and the subsequent economic downward crisis, licenses were granted to these private home restaurants. Some of them have the best food in Cuba.
Last night we dined at La Cucina de Lilliam one of the oldest Paladars and one of the most famous. We were served champignons, then stuffed crepes, the Cuban version of prosciutto, lamb, a type of sweet potato- mashed and roasted potatoes, fresh vegetable salad, and on and on. They had wines from Chile and Argentina that were respectable. I rate it a a very good choice. Today we had lunch at another paladar near the oldest cathedral in Havana, La Mondena Cubana. I had a wonderful grilled snapper and daiquiris all through lunch.
First day Havana
Wow. I had a very large misconception about the state of Havana. I imagined a faded beauty with peeling paint and decay everywhere. Yes there is lots and lots of work to be done, but on the whole, I was blown away by what I saw. Beautiful gardened squares with old trees- sort of like Savannah Georgia. Renovated piazzas with lively restaurants sprinkled around them. Many have small musical groups playing and people just jump up and start dancing. The musical rhythm is pervasive.
Many of the buildings have been restored to their bright original colors, especially around the most important public structures and monuments.
I was also expecting hotels that were simple and totalitarian. Nothing special. Well we lucked out, we are staying at the Saratoga Hotel down the street from the old Parliment building that looks like the US Capital. We have a lovely Junior suite with French doors the open to a small balcony and our view is the Dome and the rooftops of Havana.
We also expected Internet connection to be slow, difficult and expensive. None of that. Our wifi is free at the Saratoga for Junior Suites, and I have all my Apple products connected.
I have also been told that the food will be disappointing, so I’m on a mission to find the best restaurants. Tonight we eat at a small private restaurant called a paladar. Hmmmm…
I had the pleasure of spending the weekend with my company, mighty Brownell Travel.
It was a celebration of their 125th anniversary. All of the consultants meet annually to help iron out problems and learn new ways of doing business, but this was an extra special weekend. We had the tremendous support of some of the top Vendors in world: Ritz Carlton, Four Seasons, A&K Africa, Europe, US, IC Bellagio from Italy, The Tailor- Drew Kluska (the top operator in Australia) flew in from Australia, Orient Express Hotels, Natural Habitat, St. Regis and Starwood hotels, cruise lines Regent, Silversea, Crystal and Oceania were represented. That’s just a few of the splendid vendors. We offered silent and live auction trip packages to benefit the Alabama hurricane disaster, and raised $180,000.00. Makes me proud to be such a small part of an amazing company. We have a new logo which I will send separately. I love red!
Tomorrow I will be off to Cuba. Writings to follow!
Another fabulous hotel I visited was Grand hotel du Cap Ferrat in St Jean Cap Ferrat. Old world service, gorgeous rooms and public areas, a delightful pool at the bottom of the property that can be reached by a finicular. A Terrace restaurant that was so peaceful. Gardens again were beautiful. Their spa was awesome by the way- it leads out into it’s own private garden. They have also done fabulous renovations and I am posting pictures of some of the rooms.
I had the distinct privilege of being invited to lunch at Hotel du Cap-Eden Roc during ILTM. They are closed for the season, so I got to see all the new renovations to the rooms. Divine! Hotel du Cap is probably the Grand Dame of the Cote d’Azur. It is legendary for it’s beauty, service food and location. The vistas are grand indeed. Gorgeous old gardens, the hotel is set in 22 acres of pine forest.
The following description is from Wikipedia which says it all:
Built originally as a private mansion Villa Soleil (Villa of the Sun) in 1863, the Hotel du Cap, in Antibes on the French Riviera, first opened its doors to guests in 1870.
Gerald and Sara Murphy, a young American couple who had expatriated to France in the 1920s, once rented the hotel for an entire summer, a unique event for the era as the French Riviera was not a summer destination at the time, but a winter escape for the wealthy. With the Murphys came many legendary writers and artists of the Lost Generation, including F. Scott Fitzgerald and Ernest Hemingway.
The hotel was for many years famously known for not accepting any kinds of credit cards. Cash only was accepted though most guests wired money ahead of their stay. In 2006 this policy was finally dropped.
This famous 5 star property is composed of 3 buildings : – The Hotel du Cap. – The Eden-Roc. – Les 2 Fontaines.
Each year, the managing director launches renewations in order to offer the best prestations. In 2011, the Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc has received 3 awards for “the best rooms”, “the best european resorts” and “the most immaculate service”, which are the resultats of years of work for the managing team and also all the staff; all dedicated to the well-being of their guests.
Lots of famous firms and celebrities came and still come to the Hotel in order to organize events or just to enjoy the Riviera’s pleasures. The key-word is discretion, and that’s probably the key reason of the success of this property “one of a kind”.
The location is almost perfect : the Cap d’Antibes is between Nice and Cannes, and there are a lot of splendid spots to discover. Inside and outside the hotel, guests enjoy several activity. For example, inside the Hotel, there are two clay tennis court, a Spa with “La Prairie” treatments, a overflow swimming pool with an astonishing view on the mediterannean sea, fitness, shopping, hair dresser and of course 9 acres of verdure.
Guests can also enjoy the amazing “cabanas” : hidden in the roc in front the sea, the cabanas are a wonderful place to enjoy the sun and the sea.
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I am attending Intenational Luxury Travel Mart in Cannes this week and I decided to come in early to check out some highly regarded properties on the Cote D’Azur in France.
My first stay was at Cap Estel and it turned out to be as wonderful as all the feedback I had received from clients.
It is located below Eze on the edge of the water. The views of course are of the sea the rocky cliffs of Eze plunge straight down to the water, and the gardens are impeccable. Cap Estel was a large villa that was completely renovated into a very comfortable small hotel. It retains the intime homelike feeling. It has sea view rooms and many suites ending with 2 four bedroom suites that would be perfect for a family. It is also perfect for a small wedding. The grounds are perfect for a ceremony and there are several places for cocktail receptions. The pool is an infinity edge and the views are to die for. Rooms are bright white with complimentary color highlights. Bathrooms are also large and bright and have a heated floor. Service was very attentive and pleasant. I will be happy to return there. I am enclosing some pictures of the property.