The markets of Fes are thriving pulsing, filled with energy. Every possible craft, clothing, fruit, flower, meat, vegetable, spice, sweet, one can imagine, is there. Always interesting. 
Le Souk Fes
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Category Archives: Hiking
Morocco: Exotic, Elegant- The Magic Continues!
Garden by the Royal Palace Fes
Riad Fes – Relais&Chateaux hotel in Fes
I am traveling with Michael Diamond of highly touted Heritage Tours Morocco. They manage to ferret out all the divine behind the scenes restaurants, Riads, shops and sights that are a must see. Riads are homes with a central courtyard.
Fes, considered the cultural center of Morocco was a pleasant surprise. Heavily influenced by the French occupation from 1912 -1956, the city is filled with gardens. French is spoken liberally. Restaurants seem to have a strong French flavor. Part of the must see adventure is the Souk ( Market)
Hotels We Loved in Ladakh and Bhutan.
Out tent at night Chamba Luxury Tented Camp Ladakh
Dining room Chamba Tented Camp Ladakh
Bedroom Amankora Thimpu
Walk to the bar Dhensa Resort Punakha
Dhensa Resort Punakha
Gorgeous Aman Resort Punakha
Incredible Staff at Amankora Thimpu
Lobby at Uma Resort- Paro Bhutan
Our Villa Uma Paro
Our View Uma Paro
Uma Paro
Hotels we loved in Ladakh and Bhutan. All had extraordinary staff:well trained, warm, welcoming and could not do enough to make us happy. Food was far beyond my expectations- especially at Chamba Camp, Amankora Thimpu and Uma Paro. The hotels were far more sophisticated than I expected. This region is a must visit on so many levels.
Thank you And Beyond India!! Amazing Adventure!!
Out able guide in Bhutan,Tashi Druk, head of AndBeyond India Suhail Gupta, and Payal Mehta, head of operations in Bhutan. Not in the picture, but should be, is Kabir Pradhan
Our butler at Chamba Camp, Basu, the head chef at the camp, our expert Guide, Dhammo and our driver. Thank you for our ideal experience.
What an amazing experience! andBeyond India outdid themselves! Every detail was carefully thought out. The trip was completely seamless from the minute we stepped off the plane in Delhi and met with a big smile by Namgyal Wangchuk. Our shopping day in Delhi with Gagan was so interesting. We loved the restaurant Latitude, on top of Good Earth in Kahn Market. Great suggestion, Gagan.
Latitude Restaurant Delhi.
The adventure in Ladakh was stellar, thanks to our resident expert guide, Dhammo. I found Ladakh to be an very spiritual experience. The art and monasteries were incredible. The tented camp is a must for any travelers to Ladakh, and the scenery is breathtaking.
Bhutan was glorious, culminating with our hike to Tigers Nest. Our experience was one of the most memorable we have ever had, and we will return. The people in each country were warm, welcoming and it came straight from their heart. I will not forget those big white welcoming smiles.
Tiger’s Nest : the Goal
Tigers Nest Monastery
Taktsang (Tigers Nest) Monastery
Perched 3,000 feet above Bhutan on the side of a sheer rock cliff, Tiger’s Nest is one of the most popular pilmagrages in Bhutan.
Padmasambhava, popularly known as Guru Rinpoche visited and sanctified Bhutan in the 8th century. Legend has it that Guru Rinpoche flew to this site on a tigress’ back to subdue a local demon.
Our eminently able &Beyond guide, Tashi Grugg, had us start the climb early in the morning. He has done the climb over 100 times. Sheesh!
That TINY white dot in the background is our goal.
We started in a cool lovely pine forest, gentle slope that changed to straight up quickly.
Native flowers along the way. I was stoping to take pics to catch a breath!! Puff puff!
View down from the trail
Our able &Beyond guide, Tashi
Our driver, Yeshi, who literally held an umbrella over our heads on the trek up to keep us cool. I felt like a Maharani.
We actually made it!! 18,600 steps, 8miles It took us 5 hours up and down.
Our First Hike in Bhutan -2 hours up the mountain
Wild Rhododendron
View along the way- puff puff.
Half way point – beautiful Stupa with prayer Wheel.
Changangkha Lhakhang Monastery
Destination: Changangkha Lhakhang
Built in 12th century, Changangkha Lhakhang is oldest temple in Thimphu. It is hovering over a ridge above Thimphu, Bhutan. Lama Phajo Drukgom Zhigpo who came to Bhutan from Ralung in Tibet chose this site to build this lhakhang. The Lhakhang houses Chenrizig: an 11-headed, thousand-armed manifestation of Avolokitesawara as the central statue.
Bhutan Images
Our hiking destination for the day -Khamsum Yuley Temple: Built by Queen Mother of the 5th king of Bhutan to bring universal peace to the world.
Khamsum Yuley Temple
Bhutan, a Buddhist kingdom on the Himalayas’ eastern edge, is a land of monasteries, fortresses (or dzongs) and dramatic topography ranging from subtropical plains to steep mountains and valleys. In the High Himalayas, peaks such as 7,326m Jomolhari are a destination for serious trekkers. Taktsang Palphug (Tiger’s Nest) monastery, a sacred site, clings to cliffs above the forested Paro Valley.
It is a destination for active travelers. Hiking trails and choices are unlimited, be it a day hike or a 28 day hike.
Kingdom of Bhutan – A Must Visit
Dochlua pass between Thimpu and Panakha Bhutan
The Kingdom is a stunning, remarkable Himalayan country sandwiched between China, Tibet and India. Bhutan has been ruled by the same benevolent family for 400 years. It is believed that the word Bhutan is derived from Sanskrit meaning end of Tibet. Serene, spectacular vistas, the views are endless. So proud of their country, citizens welcome visitors warmly, from their heart.
On the Waterfront , Lodhi Hotel Delhi
Glass walled poolside restaurant raises the bar on the already impressive Delhi dining scene. With central kitchens on both floors, food ranges from pan Asian through the Middle East to European. A wonderful dining experience!
Top hotel choice for Delhi- The Lodhi. WOW!
Deluxe Suite with balcony-Lodhi Delhi
I am in Delhi with &Beyond India. Hard to beat &Beyond India’s accomplishments. A complete service, travel company with personal connections that enable you to experience your every travel wish.
Because the Oberoi is closed for renovation, they suggested the Lodhi. And what a spectacular suggestion it was!
Service is above any standard I have seen, sleek elegant rooms, amazing Spa, two restaurants- On the Waterfront, is one of the top in the city. A completely divine hotel.
Delhi is a beautiful vibrant city, full of countless historic sightseeing and shopping options but all I want to do is hang out at this beautiful hotel!
Exciting Luxury Resort Option for Ladakh- Chamba Luxury Tented Camp
Our View Chamba Camp
Amazing Staff at Chamba Camp
Dining room – Chamba Camp
The Ultimate Travelling Camp introduced luxury camping in Ladakh through The Chamba Camp at Thiskey, near Leh. The camp creates a luxury experience such as visits to Ladakh’s famous monasteries, hiking the many trails in the Himalayan mountains, rafting down the River Indus, and simply enjoying the silence amidst the most picturesque and unforgettable views. Ladakh is still an unspoiled destination full of gentle, warm people. The welcome is heartfelt and everywhere you look the landscapes are breathtaking.
Shopping Delhi Markets
India is at the top of my list for high quality craftsmanship. For jewelry, textiles, pashminas, marble decorative accessories, lacquer painting, art, and rugs -India has the best.
One of the best ways to find the best in India’s arts and crafts are through their Markets.
I found a great resource on India markets from Marieke’s Art of living – India.
The place to start is the central cottage industries emporium. Set up by the government, it brings in vendors from all over the cluntry, so all types of crafts are represented. They have a fixed price rule and no one bothers you. You can see what India has to offer and base their prices on what you see in later markets.
India Cottage Industries
Santushti was one of my favorites, chic, quiet, peaceful and decidedly upmarket. Developed by the Air Force Wives Association, it has a small select number of tented boutiques where apparel, furnishings, decorative accessories and fashion accessories are available in a elegant garden setting with cottages selling the most elegant wares from housewares,books , exquisite clothing, pashminas, tea etc.
Sunder Naga, not far from the Lodhi hotel -this genteel enclave specialises in jewellery, fine pashminas, gold, silver and “antiquey” things, Indian and Nepali handicrafts. There are two outstanding teashops here: Regalia Tea House and Mittal Tea House– see further notes below
Khan Market, much favoured by the expat community and wealthy Delhi citizens for the wonderful Neemrana shop that stocks lovely homewares, bath products and unguents, reproduction silver, well-designed clothing, as well as interesting sari and shoe shops.
Kahn has amarpuli, a fine Indian jewelry shop with both old and new designs. From sold gold and silver to gold plated copies.
Some shops with contemporary clothing such as Anokhi, their only store with a collection of “Special Edition” pieces upstairs, as well as a new salon of Shahnaz Husain ayurvedic beauty treatments. Two top shops worth exploring are FabIndia with India cottons designed into fresh fashion. And Good Earth another good shop for elegant Ibdian fashion, decorative accessories and on the top floor, housesthe charming restaurant, Latitude with organic, farm to table salads, and light Indian specialties. Also Biotique with its superb range of Ayurvedic-based natural beauty products, good tailors, exotic fruits, olive oil, imported wines.
Go early in the day, around 10, soon after the shops open rather than mid to late afternoon when it becomes very congested.
Noteworthy- DMC Extraodinaire
Noteworthy -Destination Management Company Extraordinaire!
Blessed with unparalleled access to all things British, Susie Worthy and Nicola Butler can plan and execute almost anything a client could dream- with the exception of a private wedding at St. Paul’s Cathedral or Tea with Queen Elizabeth. We had the most spectacular experience with Noteworthy this past week, surprise after delightful surprise. From our private visit to Highclere Castle, walking on the rooftop of Hampton Court, a pre opening visit to Winston Churchill’s War Rooms- even sitting in the great man’s chair, a walk up the back staircase in St. Paul’s to see the camera view for Diana and Charles wedding of the century, to a private visit to Prince Charles garden at Highgrove. The topper was our own personal dinner at the Tower of London – ending with the ceremony of the Keys.
Highgrove
Magnificent table in the Tower of London
Tower of London Dinner
Back staircase at St. Paul’s Cathedral
Highclere Castle – our own personal visit
View from the rooftop of Hampton Court
Rooftop of Hampton Court
Cliveden House -Tarlow England
Always considered a house for entertaining, Cliveden was built in 1666 by the 2nd Duke of Buckingham. He built the house as a hunting lodge and a place to entertain his friends and mistress. Set on 376 acres of glorius parks, the House is part of the National Trust. Cliveden has hosted every British Monarch since George I. Three Dukes and an Earl lived there. Queen Victoria was a frequent guest, and one of the notable later owners was American William Randolph Astor. The 1960’s scandal, the Profumo affair began at Cliveden. The affair helped topple the Conservative Party Government in Parliament.
A Relais & Chateaux member, Cliveden’s Andre Garrett oversees the award winning dining room.
British Countryside Sights
So many wonderful destination choices in the British countryside. Oxford, the Cotswolds,
Chiltern valley, Windsor Castle, Blenheim Palace, Bath, Stonehenge, Highclere Castle, the list goes on and on. We chose to stay in the country at Cliveden House and we based our exploration there. Spring is just about to bloom and the countryside is glorius!!
The Wolseley London
The Wolsley was one of our favorite dining spots. If has a french brasserie feel- big menu, lots of choices. Waiters in white aprons. Black and white tile floor, strike the perfect scene.
Starting with a Kir royale, I ordered the lemon sole and a crisp Chablis. We ended with a classic dessert -Pot de Creme. Perfect start to culinary adventure in London
Grumeti Sunrise and Sunset
Ending with a high note: Singita Serengeti House and Singita Explorer
Singita Serengeti House- 4 bedroom Villa next to Sasakwa.
Bathroom -Singita Sasakwa
Singita’s collection of properties : Sasakwa, Sabora(stationary tented camp), Faru Faru, Serengeti House and Explora( mobile tented camp) are probably the finest group of properties in Tanzania, if not all of Africa. Singita has a well established conservation plan, and philanthropy. One of the most successful ongoing community development projects at Singita Grumeti is the Grumeti Horticultural and Marketing Co-op Society (GHOMACOS), supplying the lodge kitchens with a constant flow of high-quality, freshly harvested, locally grown vegetables, herbs and fruits. Lodge guests are often surprised at the freshness and diversity of the juices, salads, vegetables, desserts and sorbets on the menus at Singita Grumeti, given the remote location of the five lodges and camps. Many guests are also appreciative of the fact that the food they’re enjoying is locally grown, benefits small-scale producers, and hasn’t clocked up unnecessary transport miles.
Every detail is perfect, the decor is to die for. All unique, all 5 Star in every way. Singita Saskwa also has the most comprehensive and beautifully equipped Equestrian Centre in Africa. 
My favorite SIngita Sabora
Magnificent Serengeti Game
It is easy to become caught up in the complexity of Africa: the history, the people, the camps, the tribes. To me, the magic of the continent is the interaction of the animals. Everyday is a new discovery.
Lemala Kuria Hills Camp
Taking a short flight further into the Serengeti, we visited Lemala’s Kuria Hills Camp.
No bucket showers here! Gorgeous bathtubs, blow driers, bright lighting, a completely different tented camp experience. The terrain was rocky with giant boulders, reminding me of Zimbabwe. Beautiful location. 
Fond Farewell to Serengeti Under Canvas
It is a basic mobile tented camp designed to follow the migration. Bucket Showers, and minimum services. But the staff made it a first rate experience. The food – out of a really basic kitchen -was some of the best we had. The staff was friendly, engaged, and welcoming. I will remember this camp fondly, and plan to return.
&Beyond Serengeti Under Canvas Camp- following the Migration
Limited to Tanzania and Kenya, the Great Migration is a movement of millions of Serengeti’s wildebeest, accompanied by smaller numbers of Zebra, grant’s and Thompson gazelles, Eiland, and Impala. They move in an annual pattern constantly following the rains, seeking fresh grazing. This November, the migration was near the &beyond Serengeti Under Canvas Camp. Because they are mobile, the camp can move with the migration.
Tracking the Migration in the Serengeti
Coffee and Amarula- yum!
&beyond Serengeti Under Canvas Camp
We have flown to the Serengeti to see a different terrain, and to follow the migration. Serengeti Under Canvas is a true mobile camp- everything is folded up, packed and moved when needed and one would never know it had been there. No fooprint!
Ngorngoro Crater Tanzania -one of the wonders of the world!
Ngorngoro Crater is the largest intact caldera in the world, about 30 kilometers across. An estimated 25000 large mammals are resident in the crater, including a population of approximately 6000 resident wildebeest,zebra, giraffe, and around 70 lions. Visiting it should be a must on everyone’s list. 
Return to Tanzania
I am checking out some new camps in Tanzania. First stop is Lake Manyara about 25minutes flight from Arusha. Lush green jungle. Beautiful landscapes, on the edge of the great rift.
Lake Manyara Lion
Parting shots : Galapagos
Galapagos Marine Iguana
Marine Iguanas can dive to 30 feet.
Alvatross
Amazing, spectacular, indescribable, the Galapagos never dissapoint.
Viewings of Galapagos from Silver Sea
Frigatebird flapping for attention
Passing Scenery – Galapagos
Silver Sea Galapagos – Home for the Next 8 Days
Silver Sea Galapagos
Silver Sea Galapagos is a relatively new introduction to options for a Galapagos Journey. It is a 50 cabin luxury expedition ship. With two restaurants, the food options are delightful. Of course Silver Sea has the usual unparalleled Butler service. Any wish – within limits- is their command. The staff has been outstanding, another Silver Sea standard. Cabins are large for an expedition ship, the only thing missing are bathtubs. They use zodiacs for forays into the islands and the guides are top notch. The daily schedule is jam packed. You will not miss one bird, iguana or anything that moves. This is NOT roughing it.
Sightings on Rapida Island Galapagos
Galapagos Grey Herron
Galapagos Land Iguana
Galapagos Land Iguana
Galapagos Land Iquanas often reach 3 feet in length. North Seymour Island also has Sea Iguanas, but smaller in size.
Magnificent Frigatebird on North Seymour Island
Magnificent Frigatebird trying attract attention
Found on North Seymour Island, Galapagos. Stunning birds, we see thousands of them on this island.
Baby Sea Lion -Darwin Bay, Galapagos
Crab at Darwin Bay
Galapagos: One of a Kind Archipelago
Red Footed Booby
Nasca Booby- Genovese Island, Galapagos
Galapagos is must experience for any Intrepid Traveler!
I had the privilege of sailing with Silver Sea Galapagos, a new expedition ship sailing the Galápagos Islands. We traveled to a different island- sometimes two, each day. Each island has it’s own marvels. Our first Island to explore was Genovese in the northern part of the group. It is aptly named bird island.
Quito Ecuador, a Pleasant Surprise
St Francis Cathedral and Convent courtyard
Cotopaxi Volcano starting to erupt.
Surrounded by 7 active volcanoes, Quito was declared Unesco’s first World heritage city in 1959. With a beautiful colonial architectural center, Quito was built in the 16th century over ancient Inca ruins. Surrounding the city are spectacular mountains filled with a multitude of birds, bears, and tropical flora. Lots to do and see in Quito! Especially if you are tying it to a visit to the Galapagos and want to add some days in Ecuador.
Insider Tips: Canyon Ranch
Some insider tips:
1.Prebook some of your treatments. They fill up fast.
2.Be sure to start your experience on the first morning with a program advisor.
They can help you plan what you want to accomplish, be it rehabilitate an injury, physical therapy, develop photography skills, target stress, fat loss, good nutrition plan for life, the list goes on…
3.Transfers are included but most guests don’t realize they can check in as late as midnight, so you can start your day early the next morning. To avoid the nightly rate- stay at the airport and they will pick you up early the next morning.
4.Be sure to request a boxed meal on you return transfer- it is included.
5.At this writing, treatments included for 4N are $670. For 7nights – $1200
6.Low season, when rates are the best, is June thru August.
6.Best room location – near the spa center and main building are casitas in the 100s-especially 101-104, and 163-178
Canyon Ranch – health and wellness focus
Surpringly sumptuous food is always on the menu. Canyon Ranch includes all meals and a long list of interesting activities. Portions are smaller than a normal restaurant – typically the meat or fish is 3 Ounces. Alcohol is not offered and I did not miss it.
Canyon Ranch : a special gift to yourself
It has been 10 years since I attended Canyon Ranch. I thought I would forget all the procedures, but it was like getting back on a bike. Devoted to health – both mental and physical, Canyon Ranch is a beacon for anyone who wants to improve their life. A place to regroup your body and mind- de stress, lose weight, improve your health, de stress, increase your spirituality, detox, did I mention de stress(?) – the list of how to move toward lifetime wellness is completely covered.
Dispatches from the Road 