Dispatches from the Road

Adventures in my travel world.

Recipes from the Road: Malva Pudding- Singita Grumeti Camps

Posted on June 25, 2012 by Catherine Whitworth

Singita Sasakwa- image courtesy of Singita

Posted on June 25, 2012 by Catherine Whitworth

Singita Sasakwa- image courtesy of Singita

Posted on June 25, 2012 by Catherine Whitworth

Recipes from the Road: Singita Grumeti Saskwa

Posted on June 25, 2012 by Catherine Whitworth

Probably the finest resort in East Africa, Singita Sasakwa is unrivaled in elegance.
Patterned after an English Manor House, Sasakwa sits over the Grumeti Plain offering magnificent views of game below.

One and Only Capetown- picture courtesy of O&O

Posted on June 24, 2012 by Catherine Whitworth

Favorite destinations- Masai Mara Kenya

Posted on May 22, 2012 by Catherine Whitworth

Favorite travel destinations- Tanzania

Posted on May 18, 2012 by Catherine Whitworth

Favorite Travel destinations- Tanzania

Posted on May 18, 2012 by Catherine Whitworth

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Favorite travel destinations- Tanzania

Posted on May 18, 2012 by Catherine Whitworth

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Favorite Destinations: Zambia

Posted on May 18, 2012 by Catherine Whitworth

A&K 100 Club with Royal Malewane’s Liz Biden

Posted on April 13, 2012 by Catherine Whitworth

Brownell weekend- best bosses in the world.

Posted on January 16, 2012 by Catherine Whitworth

A look at an interesting camp in Kenya

Posted on September 18, 2011 by Catherine Whitworth

Great camps in or near the Maasai Mara

Posted on June 23, 2011 by Catherine Whitworth

I am writing about camps in the Maasai Mara that afford comfort and great game viewing. Copying from the Maasai Mara site:”Maasai Mara (Masai Mara) is known as Africa’s Greatest Wildlife Reserve, situated in southwest Kenya. Famous for the abundance of lion, the Great Wildebeest Migration and the Maasai people, well known for their distinctive custom and dress, it is without a doubt Africa’s most famous safari destination. Maasai Mara National Reserve stretches 1,510 sq km (580 sq miles). The terrain of the reserve is primarily grassland and riverine forest with clumps of the distinctive acacia trees.”
The problem with the Mara is the amount of people visiting. I encountered 6-7 jeeps stalking the same game. Not an exclusive endeavor in the Mara Game Reserve. There are some camps that are situated nearby and the game viewing experience is completely different.
One is Mara Plains. Mara Plains Camp is a small, high quality, seven-roomed camp under canvas and on raised decks with sweeping views across Kenya’s notable savannahs. It is among the smallest and most personal camps in the Mara region. As one of just three camps currently operating within the Conservancy, which boasts the region’s lowest vehicle density, no mini-buses and only one guest room per 700 acres. It is possible to avoid the high tourist density of the Maasai Mara Game Reserve proper, if desired.
No other camp in the greater Maasai Mara Game Reserve or Olare Orok Conservancy has the privilege of traversing opportunities of Mara Plains Camp. Guests are able to traverse three areas as part of their stay at Mara Plains.
Another camp that affords great game viewing is Cottars 1920’s Camp. The camp situated in the Maasai Mara, bordering the Serengeti and Loliondo reserves in an untouched exclusive concession guaranteeing privacy and an abundance of wildlife.
The camp accommodates up to 22 guests in authentic white canvas tents, which are spacious and luxuriously furnished. They incorporate original safari antiques from the `20`s, private en suite dressing rooms, bathrooms the main bedroom and a verandah.
Other favorites of mine are Bateleur, Il Moran, and Mara Explorer. All beautifully appointed and very comfortable.

One of my favorite safari camps in the Masai Mara, Olonana

Posted on June 21, 2011 by Catherine Whitworth

I recently visited one of my favorite safari camps in the Masai Mara, Olonana. The tents are huge, and the decorative details are extremely well done. Number 14 has a white bathroom with a dressing alcove complete with blow dryer. Lighting for once is wonderful. I think the biggest drawback with a tented accomodation is the lighting. Forget makeup or drying your hair where you can actually see. And trying to find something in a duffle is a big challenge. The tents are close to the lodge and the walk dinner or lunch is not a long walk. Olonana is a Sanctuary Camp- part of A&K and the service is tip top. Food was outstanding as with all high end camps-I don’t know how they do it. The major drawback with Olonana is the road to the camp: extremely rutted and bumpy. A difficult ride especially if one sits on the back row of a jeep. We discussed the road with the manager, and he assured me that they are working on smoothing it out as soon as the rains fall.

Up and coming camps in Northern Kenya you might want to visit.

Posted on June 20, 2011 by Catherine Whitworth

A sensational new camp in the Northern region of Kenya is Sasaab. Located in the arid Samburu region, Sasaab offers tranquil views towards the Laikipia plateau and Mt.Kenya. Nine tents and the main lodge have a distinct Moroccan design influence. One of the many activities is camel riding.
Other divine camps in the area are Borana Lodge, Sanctuary at Ol Lentile, and Sarara.

Sirikoi main house living room

Posted on June 18, 2011 by Catherine Whitworth

Five star camps in Kenya continued- Sirikoi

Posted on June 18, 2011 by Catherine Whitworth

Continuing my look at spectacular new camps in Kenya, Sirikoi ranks up there at the top. A new breed of comfort, sophistication, yet keeping the feeling of a wildlife camp, Sirokoi is spectacular. It is situated on the Northern slopes of Mt. Kenya surrounded by the Lewa Wildlife conservancy. Your game drive experience will be private and always exciting. I am enclosing pictures of the villa, grounds and main house. They also have 6 tented accommodations facing the conservancy. Activities include game drives, helicopter excursions, biplane excursions, lion tracking, horseback riding, they also have a 200m pool.

Sirokoi / villa bathroom- fab new camp Lewa Downs

Posted on June 18, 2011 by Catherine Whitworth

Sirokoi/ Villa bedroom-Another fabulous new camp – this one in Northern Kenya, Lewa Downs

Posted on June 18, 2011 by Catherine Whitworth

Five Star Camps in Kenya you might want to consider:

Posted on June 18, 2011 by Catherine Whitworth

ol Donyo Lodge is in the heart of the 275,000 acre Mbirikani Group Ranch, located on the slopes of the Chyulu Hills National Park between the Amboseli and Tsavo West National Parks in southeast Kenya. Its location is unrivalled with full views of Mount Kilimanjaro and in the path of traditional wildlife migration routes. It is a lodge rich in history, passion and conservation.
ol Donyo Lodge is a 20-bed lodge, rebuilt and redesigned in 2008, and perched on a hillside, with no two suites or villas the same. What is consistent is the attention to detail, the comfortable yet utterly luxurious décor and the tradition of greatness. Regarded as one of the most attractive lodges in East Africa, ol Donyo Lodge is a place to call home for at least 3 nights.
There is a range of activities available – from cultural visits, “Big Five” wildlife viewing and tracking, horseback riding and mountain biking – ol Donyo Lodge is a holistic experience. The only negative in the resort is the internet connection- slim to none. Hopefully they will improve that. And most people will be happy to disconnect!
I have enclosed some pictures of the suite I stayed in. It is a great place to start your trip to Kenya. It has a great stable, and horseback riding through a journey of giraffes is an experience to remember.

Africa Inscribed, up and coming luxury Safari operator..

Posted on June 5, 2011 by Catherine Whitworth

A quick word about the company that put together our trip: Africa Inscribed. New on the Luxury Safari scene, AI is gaining a well deserved outstanding reputation. The two owners, Dylan Harriss and Gavin Ford are working night and day to make our Safari Clients happy campers. They constantly travel to camps around Africa. We were most fortunate to have Gavin guide our trip, one of the top guides in all of Africa. His depth of knowledge and charisma made our trip unforgettable. Bravo to AI. I look forward to working with them again very soon. Outstanding job Dylan and Gavin. We all thank you both.

Brilliant game day drive

Posted on June 4, 2011 by Catherine Whitworth

After we finished our heavenly Champagne breakfast on the Plains, we went on a drive. Immediately our driver, Benson, picked up a huge male lion. We tracked him for about 40 minutes because he looked like he was hunting, and there was a huge herd of zebra across the river. He would stand, smell the air and listen to the honking of the zebra herd. Finally he decided he was hot and just dropped down in some long grass. As we drove along we noticed vultures fighting over a kill, and two lappets dropped in. They were a spectacular sight, they land feet first and their wing span is around 6 feet across. we came upmto the river and watched a herd of 600 zebra. We thought we would see a crossing, but there were three huge crocs in the water. We saw one zebra get attacked, but he kicked the croc, and got across safely. Fabulous! On the way back to the lodge, Gavin, our brilliant hawkeye guide spotted a leopard in the bush and we turned around to watch him cross a swamp. Hard to top a day like that.

We started the day with a balloon ride

Posted on June 4, 2011 by Catherine Whitworth

5A wakeup call. We were driven to the ballon launch site after coffee and tea. The balloon was such a spectacular sight when it was filled. We got off before sunrise in the most incredible silence. All we heard was the jets of hot air occasionally filling the balloon to give it height. It was a divine experience silently sailing over the treetops, the Mara Plains gliding below. We saw rhino, giraffe, elephants, hippo, impalas, zebra herds. We actually flew over 30 kilometers and upon landing we were treated with a full on Champagne Breakfast.
That was just the beginning of a brilliant game drive.

Our first Cheetah sighting!

Posted on May 31, 2011 by Catherine Whitworth

Coach Dooley jumping with the Massai Warriors-pretty good!

Posted on May 29, 2011 by Catherine Whitworth

A visit to a Massai Village

Posted on May 29, 2011 by Catherine Whitworth

We paid a visit to a Massai tribal village. They greeted us with a traditional welcome dance which incorporates jumping as high as one can. The men are the warriors and their job is to protect the village and cattle from predators. The women do everything else including BUILDING their houses. The Massai tribe is Christian and the entire village of 60 formed a circle with us and started our visit with a prayer. Very moving. we then proceeded to visit a home and meet the children. The proper greeting when you meet a child is to but your hand on their head. They walk up to you with their head bowed. The grand finale of our visit was an outdoor market., under a giant Acacia tree. The ladies do all the crafts themselves-beautiful beaded work. Each lady laid out a cloth and put her items on it. We walked around a big circle and picked what we wanted, then we go to the shade and negotiate. Needles to say we got some great deals. I have presents for my daughters and friends. Of course I bought a red necklace for one of of my best friends, Jane Kimbrell. I buy her a red necklace every place I go. She is getting quite a collection.

Preparing my group for their Safari to Kenya

Posted on May 11, 2011 by Catherine Whitworth

Kenya Pre Departure Information

Enclosed is a predeparture form that explains all the limits and requirements for travel on Safari to Kenya. We also have to be concious of shots needed. I recommended they all check in with the CDC requirements. One new shot is Yellow fever and it needs to be documented on a yellow card. One had to have it for Tanzania, but not really for Kenya. I am told Kenya Customs now requires it. Another very important part of Safari is your luggage. Weight can be no heavier than 32 pounds. Bag size should be 12X24/10. It should be a soft duffle type bag because they are going into a very small cargo department. I am checking with ATT to check on international plans for ipads, iphones, and Blackberry’s. Best I can tell, you need to add an international plan to BOTH your iphone and ipad and cut off cellular data on each device. That will allow internet access in WiFi zones only, but it won’t be hundreds of dollars in fees when you return. I have also learned one needs to cut off email push, so your iphone and ipad does not download when you don’t want it. More on the preparations.

Packing for an East African Safari

Posted on April 19, 2011 by Catherine Whitworth

I am getting ready for a Safari to East Africa and I thought it might be helpful to write about what to pack. What I am suggesting is equally good for Kenya, Tanzania, Zambia, South Africa, Botswana, and Zimbabwe. It is important to take into account the other activities one might choose do do other than game drives such as fishing, horseback riding- Singita Sasakwa, and Ol Donyo Waus among others have that- canoeing, hiking, birdwatching, ATV riding , etc. You might need clothing or equipment dedicated to those activities.
The key is to PACK LIGHTLY! Most charter flights won’t carry over 20KG. Which is 44.9 pounds. I found a canvas duffle with rollers from LL Bean. I can carry it on from the US to Nairobi. Then I packed a Longchamps fold up canvas bag to hold camera equipment when I have to check the duffle. Never check ANYTHING valuable, especially camera equipment or medications. In case your luggage gets lost.
For ladies:
4 short sleeved cotton T shirts
3 easy dry long sleeved khaki shirts
3 pairs long khaki pants- mine have zippers to make into shorts
2 pairs of long pants for night
2 pairs long shorts
One dress for night dining
One skirt for night
A really GOOD pair of binoculars
A good wide brimmed hat with a tie so it won’t blow off.
2 pair of sunglasses
Malarone medication for Mosquitos
A really good mossie spray with DEET
a bathing suit
A sarong for both BS and night
2 bright colored pashminas. I use them instead of the plane blankets.
2 cashmere sweaters for night or cold mornings
1 pair of Silver Tory Burch slippers for night
1 pair of sneakers
1 folding fan
All Chargers for phones and cameras
Universal adapter
Ziploc bags for makeup and hair products
1 all weather jacket
2 cameras one with long lense attachment, one video. Extra cards.
A journal
A fold up bag to use when your carryon has to be checked.
Undergarments
1 nightgown
Medjet medical pack
Visa credit card, iPad, and cash.

Sunrise in the Norfolk Hotel gardens

Posted on April 18, 2011 by Catherine Whitworth

A day in Nairobi

Posted on April 18, 2011 by Catherine Whitworth

I stayed last night at the historic Norfolk hotel. It is over 100 years old, but recently renovated by Fairmont hotels. The public spaces remain the same and I really felt like I was in Africa. I love the Veranda and the gardens.
I paid a visit to A&K Kenya to meet all the folks that help me make wonderful Safari experiences. Last year a family from Atlanta came over on Safari and they met the children of the Jacob Loigero school. They were so impressed with the school, they sent with me two HUGE bags of school supplies- one was full of soccer balls. I took them with me today to A&K and they were delighted to get the supplies to the school in the Massai Mara. Such a wonderful gesture from my family and so great of A&K to help.

Shopping Nairobi

Posted on April 18, 2011 by Catherine Whitworth

Shopping nairobi.
My number one mission was to find the atelier of Anna trezbinski. Anna is a fashion designer from Nairobi who does extremely successful trunk shows in the US.. Among her designs are pashminsas that have feathers attached to the ends. They are absolutely stunning, and all the best camps in Africa have her designs I their shops. She used local villagers and does the most Incredible beaded jewelry, clothing with beading, bags, belts etc,etc. After some phone calls, my most resourceful driver, Alex, found her. And it was her birthday! I would love to talk her into visiting Atlanta, and doing a show there with my friend Betty Jo. I felt like I was in AliBabas cave!
I also found some local crafts shops and a wonderful curio shop called African heritage. I am bringing a group in May so I wanted to get some places lined up for them.
Another delightful place I visited in Nairobi was The giraffe center where I was able to feed the giraffes and they gave me A big kiss. Seeing those gentle animals so closely was such a thrill. I highly recommend it

Arrived Nairobi. Our guides: Gavin Ford and Dylan Harriss of Africa Inscribed

Posted on April 17, 2011 by Catherine Whitworth

Sent from my iPad
Catherine Whitworth CTA

My first kiss- a visit with the Giraffes!

Posted on April 17, 2011 by Catherine Whitworth

Shopping: I found Anna Trezbinski! Happy happy!!!!

Posted on April 17, 2011 by Catherine Whitworth

Flying to Ol Donyo Waus in the Chyulu hills

Posted on April 16, 2011 by Catherine Whitworth

Day 2, we got up early and flew a charter to the chulyu hills. Our destination camp is the fabulous Ol Donyo Waus. Charters are so much fun,because you can really see the landscape. As we were flying into the grass land g strip, I saw elephants, giraffe, zebra, impala, grant and thompson antelope. My biggest surprise wS that the landscape was so green! The area had just had rains and I have never seen such green. The trees and grasslands were amazing. I am sitting by the pool looking at elephants with a giraffe in the background, drinking from the pond below. Welcome to Africa!
Ol Donyo Waus is one of the five star camps I have been wanting to see, and it met all my expectations. The accommodations are top notch. Beautifully designed, the attention to detail is amazing. They have 10 villas- one is a two bedroom for families. Almost all have plunge pools, all have stunning views of Mt. Killimanjaro when he wants to show himself.
Activities include horseback riding, mountain bike riding, hiking, they offer a trek with with the resident bloodhounds( tracking pouchers)and of course games drives morning and evening. After our afternoon game drive, we had “Sundowners” and watched the sunset on the plains.

Horseback riding at Ol Donyo Waus

Posted on April 10, 2011 by Catherine Whitworth

Today we are all going riding. Fingers crossed, I have not been on a horse In 20 years.

I probably will move very gingerly tomorrow, but riding was fun. Ol Donyo works with a riding company called Ride Keyna. They have an incredible stable with all the equipment for riding, so if you are a rider, you don’t have to pack extra. They have three levels of riding, so anyone- even beginners can go on a very nice ride. At the end of the ride, we were surprised with a complete breakfast, set up on the Plains- linen table cloths and all!
The food at this camp is amazing. I am told everything is flown in from Nairobi.

Massai Mara

Posted on April 8, 2011 by Catherine Whitworth

We took a charter to the Massai Mara- safarilink. It was a caravan type of plane and flew so low, we could see the country below beautifully.
In the Mara we stayed at Mara Plains , owned by the same company that has Ol Donyo Waus – Great Plains. We knew we would have lovely tents for accomodations and we were not disappointed. My room was right on the river with hippo below. In the night I thought one was in my room the noise was SO LOUD! the usual plan was a game drive in the early morning before breakfast,so we could get a good view of predators on the hunt. Then quick breakfast back at the camp, later lunch under a huge evergreen, afternoon break and then back in The car for afternoon drive. Dinner is at the camp. We were so fortunate to see several prides of lions. Gavin is a big bidwatcher, so we saw hundreds of special birds all during the drives. One evening we got caught in an enormous thunderstorm on the plains. The light show was just breathtaking. We had to have our sundowners in the jeep with the rain and lightening all around us. Quite fun. In the Mara we visited quite a few camps for inspection: Intrepid Mara, Explorer, Rekoro, and Pirini lion camp. Also Sanctuary Olonana, Bateleur, and Kitchwa Tempo.