Favorite travel destinations- Tanzania
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Favorite Travel destinations- Tanzania
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Favorite Destinations: Zambia
Dispatches from the Road
Adventures in my travel world.
Temple ruins Inle Lake, Myanmar
Young Monk in Myanmar
I am fondly looking forward to my return to SE Asia.
I have started to plan my semiannual return to Bangkok, another visit to magical Myanmar, and site inspections in Krabi and Phuket Thailand. Myanmar is a really hot travel destination and I want to do a run on the fabulous Road to Mandalay- the Orient Express cruise on the Irrawaddy river in Myanmar. I also want to check the iconic Strand Hotel and Governor’s Residence in Yangon. I am so happy to see Bagan, Mandalay, and Inle Lake again. The people of Myanmar are so dear, and so happy to have guests again visiting their country. I am including some pictures from my last visit. Visas are necessary for Myanmar so I have sent off my visa application. One has to apply 3 months out. Weather will be hot and humid- yay!
One of the most gratifying letters I have ever received.
A few months ago I received an email from Lt. Marcus D’Silva who is serving our country in Kuwait. He had found a post I had made on my blog in February of 2010 about India and tiger tracking. He asked if I could help him have a similar adventure. Of course I immediately put him in touch with Toby Sinclair, and Suhail Gupta of India Safaris( Now & Beyon India- a Virtuoso company) and Salim Ali our illustrious guide at Ranthambore State Park. I told Toby and Suhail to please do everything they could to make Lt. D’Silva’s experience the best possible. As it turned out, Salim was on assignment with National Geographic, so they found Salim’s younger brother to do the guiding. Salim knows all the best sighting places. After lots of back and forth making arrangements, the trip was finally set. I was nervous because Tiger sightings are really rare, so I held my breath.
This is a portion of the thank you I received from Lt. D’Silva this week:
Catherine, Toby, Suhail, Farooq, Daljeet,
Captain Pritchard and I would like to express our sincerest thanks to all of you for organizing the game drives in Ranthambhore for the two of us. 6 drives and 5 tiger sightings up close and personal. I found myself a little sick the morning we bumped into each other Toby but we drove on with the mission (as we say in the army) and had two sightings that day. Farooq your guidance was truly exceptional. Suhail your services were most appreciated and Daljeet was extremely helpful in coordinating everything. Catherine none of this would have been possible if not for your blog and your initial assistance.
Princes and presidents could not have paid any amount to assure an experience akin to what we experienced on our trip. It was a memorable experience and one of the highlights of our journey through India.
This letter is the ultimate compliment and what we consultants are all about: making a memorable sometimes life changing experience for my client. Re posts of the blog entries and pictures are below.
A&K 100 Club with Royal Malewane’s Liz Biden
VinaVik with our host Gonzague de Lambert
Harvest time at Vina Vik
We are delighted to find that we have arrived at harvest time!
Harvest depends on the perfect time of grape maturation – four factors influence the harvest timing: tannins, chemical analysis , maturation, and sugar level.
Grapes at Vina VIK are a combination of Carmenere and Cabernet Savignon , Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Syrah. The Vina Vik winery aims to be the top wine in Chile – 100 points. They also strive to be the greenest and most organic in Chile. Tonight they begin picking the grapes at 1AM while it is cool.
Vina VIK vineyard is located 2 hours above Santiago. The valley is spectacular- green, green, green- mountains circle all around . Our host is Gonzague de Lambert.
One fact I learned: sulfites are in all wines for a fruit preservative. Vik keeps the sulfiltes very low for a more natural taste. A good harvest depends on weather conditions, light, rain, soil, the subjective decisions made during the growing year and the timing for harvest.
Cristian Vallejo is the winemaker; he along with Gonzague, make an invincible team. The combination of vast winemaking knowledge, dedication to detail for the year in- year out effort and passion for great wine is impressive. I have no doubt Vina Vik Vineyards will have the number one red wine, and it will be very soon
Room at Explora Patagonia
Glaciers, glaciers, glaciers!
I saw my first group of Glaciers today, what a thrill. The color of that ice is really gorgeous. The blue come from the minerals in the water. It is not photoshopped. We took speedboats to see Fiords in the region near Torres del Paine National Park. The color of the water changes from silver to turquoise to an amazing deep blue. The color depends on the amount of silt that washes down with the glacier runoff. This part of the world is simply breathtaking, photographs simply cannot do it justice.
More glaciers!
High Mass in Cuba
Sunday in Cuba is time for Mass and we went to the oldest Cathedral in Havana. We were delighted and privileged to participate in High Mass with his holiness, the Cardinal of Cuba,Jaime Ortega, no less. No idea how we lucked out but it was divine. The choral music was heavenly, no pun intended. We did not understand the sermon, but it was like every other Mass ceremony, so we were not lost. At the end of the Mass I shook hands with the Cardinal and he asked me where I was from, I told him we were from the US and he just beamed. Really nice guy.
Day three Cuba
We started the day with a visit to a rum factory. I really did not know that there is a high quality rum that retails for $1700 a bottle USD. A shot of rum is a great way to start the morning! We made the pilgrimage to Ernest Hemingway’s home. I knew he was highly regarded, but Cubans adore him! The house was interesting. Full of bullfight memorabilia, hunting trophies, wonderful artwork, and loaded with books everywhere. It looked like a quite comfortable house. He had marked his weight in his bathroom on the wall, everyday.
After lunch at another rooftop restaurant, we visited the atelier of the Picasso of the Caribbean, Jose Fuster. Wow! Pictures follow!
Brownell weekend- best bosses in the world.
Nice place to have margaritas
A little gem near Puerta Vallarta- Las Alamandas
I am completely blown away by a small resort on the west coast of Mexico called Las Alamandas. A Virtuoso property, I had heard the name though the years, but I never seemed to give it a good look. The property was left to Isabelle Goldsmith by her grandfather 20 years ago, and building it into a 5 star property has been her passion. The grounds are impeccable, las Alamandas is a trumpet shaped yellow flower- native to this area. Hundreds of palms line the beach, the sound of the waves is thundering. You are lulled into relaxation without even realizing it! The really great thing about the property is that Isabelle owns all the acreage around it, so it is completely unspoiled. No encroachment as far as the eye can see. Your won private paradise! It has 17 rooms and villas. I am going on an exploration of rooms next.
Shopping in Shanghai
For folks that love to shop, Shanghai can be considered by many Nirvana. The Ritz Carlton engaged a company called Shopping Tours Shanghai for a day activity for our group.
Two ladies, Suzy Fewtrell and Claire Theaker-Brown who are residents of Shanghai took us on a day of high powered shopping. They questioned us on what we wanted to see and proceeded to take us to the best dealers, determining the best buys, and in general succeeded in distilling thousands of choices to the very best. They continually go around and seek out dealers in all areas of interest – pearls, jewelry, silk, tailors, jade, handbags, clothing, antiques, shoes – you name it. They determine if it is real,who has the best quality, and what one should pay for it. They can tailor a tour for your desires, or if you prefer, a solo experience is possible. They are also up on all the latest hot, top restaurants, and have a website if you want rheum to personal shop for you. I may be emailing them to pick items I missed!
A great day!
Saying a prayer -Jade Buddha Temple Shanghai
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Ritz Carlton Pudong
I was perfectly happy with my very comfortable, warm happy family stay at the Portman Ritz Carlton. I could not imagine how anything could be better in Shanghai. Then we moved over to experience the other Ritz Carlton-on Pudong.
I have to say, I am dazzled by the brand new- one year old Ritz Carlton Pudong. It is a completely different hotel style, very sophisticated, slick, and glamorous- heavy Deco influence. The rooms are either River/ Bund view or City view. Not a bad view in the place. Enormous 24 Hour gym, fabulous spa, the Club level is a must book. Contemporary Art is everywhere. It is bright, and most welcoming. The staff is typical Ritz Carlton- state of art drop at your feet, nothing is more important than your every wish, everyone calls you by name -awesome. I had a Bund view room. Floor to ceiling windows bed facing the city, 51st floor amazing view, especially at night. The Bund is a line of historic British buildings built in the early 1800’s that line the river and then eastern Shanghai grows out beyond. All those skyscrapers lit at night- fab.
They hotel has a new very hot and trendy spot on top of the building called Flair. Jaw dropping views of the city from the 54th floor. I am told reserving a table goes for $400- and there is a line to get in!
I always forget how green and fresh the Hamptons are in July.
I travel to Montauk each summer to visit a client and friend. We plan his coming year’s travel adventures. He has been to so many places, it is really becoming a challenge. We are looking for more and more unique and exotic places. I love a good challenge. He is showing, and doing a book signing at the Bridgehampton Antique show this weekend, so I get to help.
Each time we pull into the Hamptons, we are greeted with clean cool breezes, and the most amazing trees and flowers. It was 73 degrees at 6PM last night. A divine break from 95+ in Georgia. Everything is green and fresh. The colors of the hydrangeas are a feast for my eyes. We cannot grow them like this in the South. All the lawns are manicured and the houses are so charming behind the very large hedges.
Restaurants are fabulous. Last night we ate at Sarafina, really delightful Italian. Tonight it will be East by Northeast in Montauk- rated best on the village.
I always forget how green and fresh the Hamptons are in July.
I travel to Montauk each summer to visit a client and friend. We plan his coming year’s travel adventures. He has been to so many places, it is really becoming a challenge. We are looking for more and more unique and exotic places. I love a good challenge. He is showing, and doing a book signing at the Bridgehampton Antique show this weekend, so I get to help.
Each time we pull into the Hamptons, we are greeted with clean cool breezes, and the most amazing trees and flowers. It was 73 degrees at 6PM last night. A divine break from 95+ in Georgia. Everything is green and fresh. The colors of the hydrangeas are a feast for my eyes. We cannot grow them like this in the South. All the lawns are manicured and the houses are so charming behind the very large hedges.
Restaurants are fabulous. Last night we ate at Sarafina, really delightful Italian. Tonight it will be East by Northeast in Montauk- rated best on the village.
St. Regis Atlanta is offering a great Brownell Travel weekend rate.
The fabulous St. Regis Atlanta is offering a Brownell Travel weekend rate of $209.00 per night plus tax, till the end of the year. The rate can be reserved through any Brownell or Sterling Brownell consultant if rooms are available.
Great camps in or near the Maasai Mara
I am writing about camps in the Maasai Mara that afford comfort and great game viewing. Copying from the Maasai Mara site:”Maasai Mara (Masai Mara) is known as Africa’s Greatest Wildlife Reserve, situated in southwest Kenya. Famous for the abundance of lion, the Great Wildebeest Migration and the Maasai people, well known for their distinctive custom and dress, it is without a doubt Africa’s most famous safari destination. Maasai Mara National Reserve stretches 1,510 sq km (580 sq miles). The terrain of the reserve is primarily grassland and riverine forest with clumps of the distinctive acacia trees.”
The problem with the Mara is the amount of people visiting. I encountered 6-7 jeeps stalking the same game. Not an exclusive endeavor in the Mara Game Reserve. There are some camps that are situated nearby and the game viewing experience is completely different.
One is Mara Plains. Mara Plains Camp is a small, high quality, seven-roomed camp under canvas and on raised decks with sweeping views across Kenya’s notable savannahs. It is among the smallest and most personal camps in the Mara region. As one of just three camps currently operating within the Conservancy, which boasts the region’s lowest vehicle density, no mini-buses and only one guest room per 700 acres. It is possible to avoid the high tourist density of the Maasai Mara Game Reserve proper, if desired.
No other camp in the greater Maasai Mara Game Reserve or Olare Orok Conservancy has the privilege of traversing opportunities of Mara Plains Camp. Guests are able to traverse three areas as part of their stay at Mara Plains.
Another camp that affords great game viewing is Cottars 1920’s Camp. The camp situated in the Maasai Mara, bordering the Serengeti and Loliondo reserves in an untouched exclusive concession guaranteeing privacy and an abundance of wildlife.
The camp accommodates up to 22 guests in authentic white canvas tents, which are spacious and luxuriously furnished. They incorporate original safari antiques from the `20`s, private en suite dressing rooms, bathrooms the main bedroom and a verandah.
Other favorites of mine are Bateleur, Il Moran, and Mara Explorer. All beautifully appointed and very comfortable.
One of my favorite safari camps in the Masai Mara, Olonana
I recently visited one of my favorite safari camps in the Masai Mara, Olonana. The tents are huge, and the decorative details are extremely well done. Number 14 has a white bathroom with a dressing alcove complete with blow dryer. Lighting for once is wonderful. I think the biggest drawback with a tented accomodation is the lighting. Forget makeup or drying your hair where you can actually see. And trying to find something in a duffle is a big challenge. The tents are close to the lodge and the walk dinner or lunch is not a long walk. Olonana is a Sanctuary Camp- part of A&K and the service is tip top. Food was outstanding as with all high end camps-I don’t know how they do it. The major drawback with Olonana is the road to the camp: extremely rutted and bumpy. A difficult ride especially if one sits on the back row of a jeep. We discussed the road with the manager, and he assured me that they are working on smoothing it out as soon as the rains fall.
Olonana view from the bed
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Up and coming camps in Northern Kenya you might want to visit.
A sensational new camp in the Northern region of Kenya is Sasaab. Located in the arid Samburu region, Sasaab offers tranquil views towards the Laikipia plateau and Mt.Kenya. Nine tents and the main lodge have a distinct Moroccan design influence. One of the many activities is camel riding.
Other divine camps in the area are Borana Lodge, Sanctuary at Ol Lentile, and Sarara.
Sirikoi main house living room
Sirokoi / villa bathroom- fab new camp Lewa Downs
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Sirokoi/ Villa bedroom-Another fabulous new camp – this one in Northern Kenya, Lewa Downs
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Five Star Camps in Kenya you might want to consider:
ol Donyo Lodge is in the heart of the 275,000 acre Mbirikani Group Ranch, located on the slopes of the Chyulu Hills National Park between the Amboseli and Tsavo West National Parks in southeast Kenya. Its location is unrivalled with full views of Mount Kilimanjaro and in the path of traditional wildlife migration routes. It is a lodge rich in history, passion and conservation.
ol Donyo Lodge is a 20-bed lodge, rebuilt and redesigned in 2008, and perched on a hillside, with no two suites or villas the same. What is consistent is the attention to detail, the comfortable yet utterly luxurious décor and the tradition of greatness. Regarded as one of the most attractive lodges in East Africa, ol Donyo Lodge is a place to call home for at least 3 nights.
There is a range of activities available – from cultural visits, “Big Five” wildlife viewing and tracking, horseback riding and mountain biking – ol Donyo Lodge is a holistic experience. The only negative in the resort is the internet connection- slim to none. Hopefully they will improve that. And most people will be happy to disconnect!
I have enclosed some pictures of the suite I stayed in. It is a great place to start your trip to Kenya. It has a great stable, and horseback riding through a journey of giraffes is an experience to remember.
Bathroom with huge tub Ol Donyo Wuas
Brand new appearance for my blog! Hope you like it!
I enlisted Taylor McCleskey from Atlanta, to help me polish up my blog appearance, and I really like it. I would love to hear what you think.
Looks like my next trip is a visit to the Hamptons to visit a friend in Montauk in July. It is one of my favorite yearly trips. We work on his next year travel plans. Always stimulating and lots of fun.
Then I will be off to Shanghai for a look at the Ritz Carlton Hotels.
Hard to beat Ritz Carltons! I am flying American so I am interested to see their flying experience. I am a Delta girl from birth.
Ritz Carlton Dubai and The Address Dubai
We are on our way home, and we routed through Dubai.
Coming over, we stayed at the Address which is downtown and close to the airport. The bar is on the top of the building and the view was outstanding. The hotel was fabulous, rooms beautifully done, and breakfast was one of the best we had on the whole trip.
On the return, we decided to stay at the Ritz Carlton in the beach area. True to form, the Ritz lived up to it’s brilliant reputation. The hotel is done in classical Arabian style, the rooms are airy and classically decorated. Beds are amazing. We dropped off right to sleep. We splurged and
had lunch at Burj Al Arab the hotel that looks like a sail. Now that hotel is fabulous in an over the top way. Lunch was
just incredible. The Al Manturuh was on the 27th floor and you can see one of the Palm residential areas. We also
visited the famed Mall and the Ski Slope! I could not believe
it! Temperature was 3 degrees. It is enormous! We had to put
on boots and ski coats just to go in to the area. Nelson
actually skied, and he is really good! The Emirates Mall is Nirvana for any shopper.
Brilliant game day drive
After we finished our heavenly Champagne breakfast on the Plains, we went on a drive. Immediately our driver, Benson, picked up a huge male lion. We tracked him for about 40 minutes because he looked like he was hunting, and there was a huge herd of zebra across the river. He would stand, smell the air and listen to the honking of the zebra herd. Finally he decided he was hot and just dropped down in some long grass. As we drove along we noticed vultures fighting over a kill, and two lappets dropped in. They were a spectacular sight, they land feet first and their wing span is around 6 feet across. we came upmto the river and watched a herd of 600 zebra. We thought we would see a crossing, but there were three huge crocs in the water. We saw one zebra get attacked, but he kicked the croc, and got across safely. Fabulous! On the way back to the lodge, Gavin, our brilliant hawkeye guide spotted a leopard in the bush and we turned around to watch him cross a swamp. Hard to top a day like that.
We started the day with a balloon ride
5A wakeup call. We were driven to the ballon launch site after coffee and tea. The balloon was such a spectacular sight when it was filled. We got off before sunrise in the most incredible silence. All we heard was the jets of hot air occasionally filling the balloon to give it height. It was a divine experience silently sailing over the treetops, the Mara Plains gliding below. We saw rhino, giraffe, elephants, hippo, impalas, zebra herds. We actually flew over 30 kilometers and upon landing we were treated with a full on Champagne Breakfast.
That was just the beginning of a brilliant game drive.
Our first Cheetah sighting!
A visit to a Massai Village
We paid a visit to a Massai tribal village. They greeted us with a traditional welcome dance which incorporates jumping as high as one can. The men are the warriors and their job is to protect the village and cattle from predators. The women do everything else including BUILDING their houses. The Massai tribe is Christian and the entire village of 60 formed a circle with us and started our visit with a prayer. Very moving. we then proceeded to visit a home and meet the children. The proper greeting when you meet a child is to but your hand on their head. They walk up to you with their head bowed. The grand finale of our visit was an outdoor market., under a giant Acacia tree. The ladies do all the crafts themselves-beautiful beaded work. Each lady laid out a cloth and put her items on it. We walked around a big circle and picked what we wanted, then we go to the shade and negotiate. Needles to say we got some great deals. I have presents for my daughters and friends. Of course I bought a red necklace for one of of my best friends, Jane Kimbrell. I buy her a red necklace every place I go. She is getting quite a collection.
New York, New York
It is always wonderful to get to the city and see old friends. I also have had the pleasure of visiting with clients and firming up future travel plans. I am staying with a friend and last night he had a most delightful dinner party for a friend visiting from Indonesia, Jerome Abel. He just opened a very successful gallery showing at Ralph Pucci Gallery the night before. In attendance were some of my most favorite clients, Preston and Theo, Jerome, Matthew, Vicente, and Ralph Pucci himself-wow! I was in high cotton! The table was beautifully set and the evening was filled with laughter.
Today I had lunch with an old friend, Jerry Rose, who has emerged with a stunning event planning business-of course, Jerry Rose. His
partner John Simodis was a pleasure to meet and I look forward to
working on some new trips for them. Check out Jerry’s new website:
JerryRose.com. Tonight more visits with old friends Jose Nunez and
Aliye Simavi-I really miss Fred. And another of my favorite clients the Redleafs.
New York, New York
It is always wonderful to get to the city and see old friends. I also have had the pleasure of visiting with clients and firming up future travel plans. I am staying with a friend and last night he had a most delightful dinner party for a friend visiting from Indonesia, Jerome Abel. He just opened a very successful gallery showing at Ralph Pucci Gallery the night before. In attendance were some of my most favorite clients, Preston and Theo, Jerome, Matthew, Vicente, and Ralph Pucci himself-wow! I was in high cotton! The table was beautifully set and the evening was filled with laughter.
Today I had lunch with an old friend, Jerry Rose, who has emerged with a stunning event planning business-of course, Jerry Rose. His
partner John Simodis was a pleasure to meet and I look forward to
working on some new trips for them. Check out Jerry’s new website:
JerryRose.com. Tonight more visits with old friends Jose Nunez and
Aliye Simavi-I really miss Fred. And another of my favorite clients the Redleafs.
Back to Kenya!
Preparing my group for their Safari to Kenya
Kenya Pre Departure Information
Enclosed is a predeparture form that explains all the limits and requirements for travel on Safari to Kenya. We also have to be concious of shots needed. I recommended they all check in with the CDC requirements. One new shot is Yellow fever and it needs to be documented on a yellow card. One had to have it for Tanzania, but not really for Kenya. I am told Kenya Customs now requires it. Another very important part of Safari is your luggage. Weight can be no heavier than 32 pounds. Bag size should be 12X24/10. It should be a soft duffle type bag because they are going into a very small cargo department. I am checking with ATT to check on international plans for ipads, iphones, and Blackberry’s. Best I can tell, you need to add an international plan to BOTH your iphone and ipad and cut off cellular data on each device. That will allow internet access in WiFi zones only, but it won’t be hundreds of dollars in fees when you return. I have also learned one needs to cut off email push, so your iphone and ipad does not download when you don’t want it. More on the preparations.
Sunrise in the Norfolk Hotel gardens
A day in Nairobi
I stayed last night at the historic Norfolk hotel. It is over 100 years old, but recently renovated by Fairmont hotels. The public spaces remain the same and I really felt like I was in Africa. I love the Veranda and the gardens.
I paid a visit to A&K Kenya to meet all the folks that help me make wonderful Safari experiences. Last year a family from Atlanta came over on Safari and they met the children of the Jacob Loigero school. They were so impressed with the school, they sent with me two HUGE bags of school supplies- one was full of soccer balls. I took them with me today to A&K and they were delighted to get the supplies to the school in the Massai Mara. Such a wonderful gesture from my family and so great of A&K to help.
Dispatches from the Road 